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I would just like to see what you guys think I can net out of the newest line of upgrades I am going to pursue. I have my NX kit sitting in front of me waiting to go in but the clutch has got to be done b4 this happens. Since the tranny will be open I am going to do the clutch, flywheel, & ITR LSD (still trying to close the deal on it) and save some time and labor. I decided to go with the Clutch Specialties street upgrade clutch for three reasons, (as I was going to do the ClutchNet clutch b4) one is that they actually make the RPS clutches and nothing good has been said about them and secondly, the material that is on the full faced kit is not the greatest when compared to a tried and trued organic face, and lastly I want to be like Lundgren and Vtecno (j/k http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif) So after talking to Brian at CS indepth today (I never said a word about ClutchNet and when I asked him about the "Fiber-tuff" material he told me it was junk) I will be ordering up a "Complete" CS kit this week and at a 250ft/lb (approximately 300hp) rating it should be perfect for my setup. I am planning on going with a 7lb Fidanza flywheel (from a seemingly defunked groupbuy) or the JR unit that JRCivic sells (which is also made by Fidanza) weighing in at 8lbs and the ITR LSD to really put the power to the ground. Now I would like to know if anybody out there thinks that with the upgraded clutch, flywheel, differential, slicks, and a conservative 20-25 shot of nitrous that I can shave 1.5 secs (or more)off my best of 13.6 @ 103mph with a crappy 60ft of 2.29 on drag radials? I think it is very do-able but I would like to see what you guys think cause I could be just dreaming ya know? Also does anyone see any problems with the setup I am choosing for my daily driven "Race Car" as I am by no means a pro at this stuff. Well let the comments rip guys and as always, don't hold back. Thanks http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif
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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, DC 4-2-1 one peice header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, RC 310's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, H&R sports and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on the "Juice".
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Hey Mr. Rogers...you are definately doing all the right things!!...there's only one problem...I dont think that you would be able to shave 1.5 seconds off you time with drag radials...you car with all that gear will be pretty powerful..to pwerful for the drag radials...you need to be able to harness that power....you need some slicks!!... www.nrg-racing.com has a deal on the Lenso's right now $120/each...thats a great price!!...then just add the M&H 22x8x13 slicks they usually run about $250 for the pair and you will be set...after the slicks your 60ft's will be in the 1.9/1.8 range easily and consistantly....that should put you well into the twelves...with all that gear that you are putting on your car....spend the couple extra dollars and get the slicks...I promise you it will be worth it!!!
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John
B18C1 powered 95 Civic EX Coupe
'92 Civic VX Hatch...waiting for H22A
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Isn't 1.5 sec the difference seen with the JRSC? I honestly couldn't tell you what to expect but on drag radials...1.5 sec seems like a lot.
I'm going to put in my guess (maybe we should start a contest?) as to your 1/4 mile time with this setup (w/ drag radials):
12.8 @ 108mph
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1995 Integra GSR
JR Supercharger (6 psi), HO fuel pump, RS*R Header, Apexi WS cat-back exhaust, Iceman Intake, Neuspeed Front Tower Bar, Type-R Rear Swaybar, Short Shifter, ST 1.3" drop springs
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Bigkat...you got us...oops http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
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John
B18C1 powered 95 Civic EX Coupe
'92 Civic VX Hatch...waiting for H22A
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Well I personally can't atest to any gains from the flywheel but JRCivic dropped .2 off his et's with the JR flywheel. If that is good, then I don't know what is http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/confused.gif Why would it be too light for drag racing?
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>All of the improvement is in the 1/8 mile... ET's in the 1/8 are all in the 8.16 to 8.20 range at 88 mph. 60' times range from 1.84 to 1.89 seconds.
So, the bottom line on the flywheel is GET ONE !!! It provides less rotating mass on the crank, and thus allows the motor to "Free spin" much easier and faster. Multiply this with your gear ratios and you can see why I shaved 2/10's off of my times.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I kinda have that proven results mentality here, I have purchased only upgrades that "Prove" themself to others that have gone before me. Jim, how did the drivability of the flywheel turn out on the street? I haven't heard anything bad about them but I am sure you have logged tons of seat time by now with the unit. What are some other peoples experiences with the lightned flywheels?
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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, DC 4-2-1 one peice header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, RC 310's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, H&R sports and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on the "Juice".
[This message has been edited by Mr Rogers (edited October 03, 2000).]
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I think that the power will No DOUBT be put to the ground but like CivicR mentioned.... you'll need slicks to get down to 1.5 not drag radials. You're putting A lot of power down. THose drag radials won't hold.
Just my 2?.
Keep us posted.
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It take a Nation of Millions to hold Us Back!!!
http://www.bocajuniors.com.ar/escuani.gif
<a href="http://c-speedracing.com/" TARGET=_blank>C-SpeedRacing</a>
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I will make a drunken bet of 12.68 @ 109MPH
ANyone else?
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Now I would like to know if anybody out there thinks that with the upgraded clutch, flywheel, differential, slicks, and a conservative 20-25 shot of nitrous that I can shave 1.5 secs (or more)off my best of 13.6 @ 103mph with a crappy 60ft of 2.29 on drag radials?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
LOL..........you guys misread his post completely. No diss'n here........just read it again http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
Jav - here you go.
#1 - Need a base run on slicks w/ current set-up
Current set-up should be good for 13.0-.3's...........put her to the test http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
#2 - Minus NOS your upgraded drivetrain should net you .1-.4 tenths.
Not sure about the condition/or make of your current clutch/flywheel
#3 - NOS should net you another .2-.6 tenths. Shit, I dropped .4 tenths on my D16 after some tuning of the fuel. I'm sure the B18C will love the giggle gas even more.
My personal opinion, you should drop a full second.........put the TEG on a diet and you will see the 1.5 that you seek. Good luck. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
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I think you'll find the 8 lb flywheel may not be heavy enough for drag racing, you really don't need any more in 1st and 2nd, but you'll loost the momentum in 3rd and 4th gear. In short it may be too light.
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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/
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Here's one of many HP calculators out there http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htm This one seems to be sufficient.
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Fred G.
'97 Civic EX supercharged http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/4059
Beech 1900D driver...2,558 shp, 10,000+ ft./lbs. tq., top speed 331 mph :)
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John... that sounds like my times !!!
Javin,
I think that it will take much more than what you have outlined here to shave a second and a half... however, I think that Reggie (Bigkat) has outlined a more rounded package to attain this goal.
Stop playing with drag radials... if these were the shit, all of the top cars would be running them. Fact is, they cannot harness the HP that you are going to create on a consistent basis. GET SOME SLICKS.
The flywheel is proven... but Lundgren has a point. You will not make more power, in fact, you may lose a pony or two on the top-side with the lightweight flywheel. The good news is that you will more than make up for this in the first 1/8th mile to make up for this loss. The flywheel cannot create the momentum that a heavy flywheel generates, so the motor must "use" more HP to maintain the high rpm's.
As for daily drivability, I think that the flywheel is a bit tempermental, but not terribly bad. To control it, you simply have to rev the car above 2K to create a gentle launch... along with some clutch feathering. I got used to it within a day or two. Now, I don't even notice.
Something that you might try: find that old thread with the formulas to figure HP, 1/4 times, trap speeds etc. Put in your car's weight and desired 1/4 mile time to generate a HP figure... then subtract what you have now. What is left is what you need to create with the adds you discussed. If you know that you cannot make this with what you have outlined, then you must start dropping the cars weight.
Let me know if I can help.
Jim
BTW - RogueSol can give you that website if you can't find it. E-mail him.
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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
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Thanks for all the help guys. About the tire issue, I have direct access to 3 different sets of slicks but haven't run at the track since they became available. I have been the camera man and then itgot raine out the last two times I went up there to run. 22/13's 24/13's and 22/15's are my weapons to choose from. I sealed to deal on the LSD so that is going in along with the clutch b4 I run the slicks (less chance of a axle blow out from what I understand) but the wieght loss program is a must I know. Well thanks to all those that have helped and feel free to continue with the advice or speculation. I need it all http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif
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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, DC 4-2-1 one peice header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, RC 310's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, H&R sports and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on the "Juice".
