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I tried to search in the archives..but nothing comes up...
I'm using DC Sports header. The thing is it has 2" collector...too damn small for FI application. I want to get a Kamikazi to replace it. I'm still using stock catalytic converter. What collector size is the Kamikazi comes in? 3" or 2.5"??? Will it bolt onto my stock cat.? Also, what would be a better choice? 4-1 or 4-2-1?
Also, is it possible/hard to cut off the DC collector and weld a 2.5 or 3" pipe there instead of buying a new header?
[This message has been edited by randomwalk101 (edited July 31, 2001).]
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by randomwalk101:
I tried to search in the archives..but nothing comes up...
I'm using DC Sports header. The thing is it has 2" collector...too damn small for FI application. I want to get a Kamikazi to replace it. I'm still using stock catalytic converter. What collector size is the Kamikazi comes in? 3" or 2.5"??? Will it bolt onto my stock cat.? Also, what would be a better choice? 4-1 or 4-2-1?
Also, is it possible/hard to cut off the DC collector and weld a 2.5 or 3" pipe there instead of buying a new header?
[This message has been edited by randomwalk101 (edited July 31, 2001).]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
You can get the Kami header with a downpipe that will fit the stock cat. The header makes power, but let's just say that the fit/finish is "less than impressive". It gave good gains, but I ended up selling mine partially due to the fact that the fitment caused some very annoying problems. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/mad.gif
Sonny
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Sonny Van Hook ([email protected])
2000 Supercharged Civic Si @ 6psi
1999 Tonykart/Honda 80cc Shifter
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by randomwalk101:
Also, is it possible/hard to cut off the DC collector and weld a 2.5 or 3" pipe there instead of buying a new header?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Well, I had the intake of my supercharger cut off and rewelded. (to avoid the ABS lines) so I think anything might be possible.
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Sonny,
What kind of fitment problems? I heard that the Kami header doesn't fit so well - what problems did came along with the fitment issues?
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Actually, as far as I know, the Kami header only comes in 4-1, no 421 application as far as I know. The fit and finish on this header is crap compared to the RSR 421 that I had before. I can honestly say though, that I lost noticeable midrange power, but I'm sure that the top end gain is there somewhere. The header comes in 2.25" collector which fits the stock cat and a 2.5" Type-R header, but requires a trip to the muffler shop to make everything fit together well. You'll need either a straight pipe or a 2.5" cat, and to modify this unit because the type r header is longer than our GSRs, so the cat/straightpipe must be shortened to make everything fit. I think when rjaffey and lundgren did it, they said it cost around 2-300 if I'm not mistaken. Not sure if its worth that extra 3-4 hp up top is may give at 6psi.
Jon
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Well I had to cut the B-pipe section (comes off the 4-1 collector) and get it rewelded to clear my Moroso Oil pan. I had a custom 3" exhaust made but I am also running a 12 psi pulley on a 2.0L motor though.
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Hmmm, If the Kami has all these issues, plus there is no downpipe bracket, what is a good second choice, for JRSC'd motors? Any other non-custom header available with larger/shorter primaries? How about a Greddy? I had pretty much decided on the Kami & Carsound cat, but you guys have just about talked me out of it.
Bill
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Good question, Bill...Ive never been impressed with the quality of Kami's units at all. Definitely makes me reluctant to put one on my car. Anyone prefer an alternative?
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1995 Milano Red GSR w/goodies
H/A & H/T Teg Forum Mod
Creeping to the darkside...
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Corpse:
Sonny,
What kind of fitment problems? I heard that the Kami header doesn't fit so well - what problems did came along with the fitment issues?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
The downpipe section of the header does not run parallel to the ground. It's angled upward about 10 degrees. So, this means that the joint at the cat was not perfect. It would leak and because of the fact it was aimed upward, it raised the cat up and the cat would periodically whack the floorboard. In addition to that, the 3 bolts that bolted the downpipe to the manifold section of the header constantly came loose. Extra long bolts with double nuts cured that problem, but it was a pain in the butt no less.
It made power, but it was not worth the hassle. Additionally, I would not run a header (unless it is very light) that does not have a support bracket attachment for the bracket by the oil pan. It stabilizes the header and takes some of the stress off of the bolts holding the header to the head (1 piece header) or downpipe to the manifold (2 piece header).
Sonny
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Sonny Van Hook ([email protected])
2000 Supercharged Civic Si @ 6psi
1999 Tonykart/Honda 80cc Shifter
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OK,
Here's my experience as it relates to the 2.5" Kami header:
- You have to customize the exhaust to bolt up to the header.
- You have to make a rear support bracket to properly support the downpipe at the rear of the engine. This is absolutely TRIVIAL. Whoever customizes the exhaust to fit can do this in about 15 minutes.
- The down pipe runs perfectly parallel to the underside of engine from front to back. The converter sits exactly where it should under the the floorboards. There is NO problem with ground clearance or anything banging the floorboards under any conditions I've run into. The flex joint which the shop fabricated does NOT leak.
- The gasket between the header and the downpipe has never blown out and the bolts have never loosened a bit. I attribute this to the use of lock washers on those bolts and the fact that I've got a rear support bracket which prevents the flange in question from seeing excessive stress.
- The build quality is pretty good; damned good for the price. I've bought a lot of headers for a lot of cars over the last 25 years.
- The only real problem I've seen with the Kami header is that the individual ports have to be opened up and reshaped a tad with a grinder to provide a proper port matching and transition from the head to the header.
[This message has been edited by rjaffey (edited July 31, 2001).]
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Ill say this RIGHT NOW.........my kamikaze header is the biggest piece of crap i have ever bought for my car, PERIOD!
Ive gone through 5 header collector gaskets due to poor flange, and no header support strap....the color looks like crap after a month or soo.....
I have since(today)order a DC 4-2-1 ONE PIECE to replace this boat anchor. I went from a GREDDY header, to a KAMI, and i can tell you that the GREDDY was an ALL AROUND better header......the Kami did yeild some HIGH RPM power, but not enough to matter IMO @6psi.....
Kamikaze header, theres 219$ blown out the door......the new DC cost me 265$ Ive probably spent 50 bux on BOLTS/NUTS and GASKETS for that shitter kazi header http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/rolleyes.gif
By the way, this is just MY opinon,
Tony
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Dont believe me.......Check it out for yourself at http://www.etrscca.org
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Rafe,
Sounds like the GS-R header is built a little differently, but on the Civic Si header, the downpipe definitely does not run
parallel to the ground. I saw this on my own header as well as on another car that used the 2.25" downpipe (for the stock cat).
I resorted to bolting the header to a table and heading the 90 deg bend in the downpipe with a MAP-gas torch. I bent it just a touch and got it pretty much straight.
You get what you pay for. The Kami is definitely a "bargain" in terms of what you pay, but if people are looking for OEM fit, this is not the header of choice. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
Sonny
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Sonny Van Hook ([email protected])
2000 Supercharged Civic Si @ 6psi
1999 Tonykart/Honda 80cc Shifter
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You know what, I think I'm getting the cat movement too. Ever since I installed the Kami header, on hard shifts I get a noise that seems to sound like two things bumping into each other. The sound is definitely not metallic, sounds kind of like a thump. Guess it's time to get under my car see if it's the cat bumping up into my floorboards. Thanks for the suggestion, I was thinking that it was maybe my header pulling away at the collector and banging into something. The merge from the primaries to the collector is pretty crappy in my opinion as well, mine has come loose twice now, but this last time, I made sure everything was perfect, and it hasn't happened for the last few months.
Jon
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by The ANTI-RICE:
Ill say this RIGHT NOW.........my kamikaze header is the biggest piece of crap i have ever bought for my car, PERIOD!
Ive gone through 5 header collector gaskets due to poor flange, and no header support strap....the color looks like crap after a month or soo.....
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Well the color totally makes a huge WHP difference so I'd trash it too.
*grin*
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It'd be nice if some company marketed (after testing) a header specifically made for SC Honda's.
Well, besides, the $1000 Hitech header.
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BurntGSR:
Well the color totally makes a huge WHP difference so I'd trash it too.
*grin*<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Well, my CLEAR LEXAN hood just gives it away! http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/rolleyes.gif http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
Tony
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Dont believe me.......Check it out for yourself at http://www.etrscca.org
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As long as everyone else has something to say about the kami header, I'll post my experience as well...
I've got the D series Civic header with 2.5" downpipe. The header fits fine. It doesn't leak and it doesn't have any weird angle. The "color" turned a flat grey as with any ceramic/jet coated header.
A guy named Larry used his die grinder to match the Kami ports with my head.
I too elected to make a downpipe hanger to take the stress off of the upper/lower header joint. I used the OE hanger bracket that bolts to the support next to the flywheel inspection cover. The OE hanger bracket is bolted to that bracket and welded to the downpipe.
As for the cat - yes, if you have a 2.5" collector, it's going to be too big for any OE integra/civic cat. I've got the carsound 3" cat in between the Kami and a 3" thermal cat. back system. A tight fit, but it will work. And yes, it's too loud.
-TJ
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I?ve installed my exhaust-setup for over 3 month now and never had a problem with any part of it. The Kami-header has good quality and fits perfect on my engine. I had to make the 2.5" downpipe fit on my Carsound-cat. The Carsound cat is an universal cat, so you must do this with any downpipe.
It was major work and I had my own welder but I?m very happy with the sound, fittings and performance now. I have welded an decibel-restrictor and a mid-pipe-resonator + a compensator to prefent exhaust damage (the compensatore is a part which alows the exhaust to "move" in all directions!
When I had to do it again, I will make it the same way. Look my exhaust-pics in the sign.
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Supercharged ITR?98 @ 5.5psi
BTC unit, Apexi VAFC, K&N short ram intake, skunk2 cam gears, Kamikaze 2.5", ceramic header, Thermal 3" exhaust, RC 310 injectors, Cartech FMU, AEM FPR
http://www.geocities.com/superchargedtyper
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...622&a=12515817
http://www.geocities.com/autitr/myin...l?991952862150
[This message has been edited by austrian type-R (edited July 31, 2001).]
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Okay, to clarify once for all..the Kamikazi 2.5 (or 3") collector will NOT bolt up to stock cat. This means if i were to get it, I would either have to get a 2.5" cat (or 3") or test pipe..plus modifying the flange on my existing 2.5" catback to fit...sounds like too much work and money or a 2 or 3 hp gains...
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by -TJ:
I've got the carsound 3" cat in between the Kami and a 3" thermal cat. back system. A tight fit, but it will work. And yes, it's too loud.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Same setup like mine and yes it is too loud. That?s the reason, why I put my mid-pipe resonator and the dezibel-restrictor in http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif
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Supercharged ITR?98 @ 5.5psi
BTC unit, Apexi VAFC, K&N short ram intake, skunk2 cam gears, Kamikaze 2.5", ceramic header, Thermal 3" exhaust, RC 310 injectors, Cartech FMU, AEM FPR
http://www.geocities.com/superchargedtyper
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...622&a=12515817
http://www.geocities.com/autitr/myin...l?991952862150
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Tony / Anti Rice, if you have blown 5 gaskets, why didnt you make a copper gasket ? costs pennies (less than a DC for sure) and takes what ? 1/2 an hour to make and fit ???
Forgot to mention my Kami : fits OK, just had to move the mounting holes 3mm, but I asked for the D16Z6 header as it is the nearest fit to my ZC. It clears everything, and mounts to my Joebuilt 3" system (w/o cat) no problem. As for it discoloring :"the horror, the horror..."
[This message has been edited by Joe/UK (edited August 01, 2001).]
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Has anybody heard anything about JGEdelbrok headers?
Their ad in the latest SCC showed a two piece 4-2-1 header and an "optional 3" race B-pipe".
Could this mean they sell a full cat-less setup that fits?
Greg
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Joe/UK:
Tony / Anti Rice, if you have blown 5 gaskets, why didnt you make a copper gasket ? costs pennies (less than a DC for sure) and takes what ? 1/2 an hour to make and fit ???
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
i tried using the OE "paper" kind.....didnt work(duh!), then i tried using this "LAST HEADER GASKET YOULL EVER NEED" aluminum gasket...this one lasted apprx. 2 weeks with one autox, and one road race situation.....What im getting at is, im torqueing the motor soo much, its pulling/breaking the bolts/nuts loose from the collector flange, then the escaping gas is burning up the gasket......and YES i use GRADE "8" bolts/nuts.......Both times ive looked under the car to fix the problem, the FRONT nut, and drivers side rear nut have been MISSING.......I tried using LOCTITE, and LOCKWASHER, but still no luck....
Besides, i like a 4 2 1 header anyway....i dont like the sloooooooooow, then KICK the header turned my car into. Ill sacrifice TOP END for MID RANGE anyday.
Thanks,
Tony
{p.s. Right now ive got 3 LONG bolts with TWO nuts on the ends to make sure they dont fall/break off untill my DC arrives Friday.)
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Dont believe me.......Check it out for yourself at http://www.etrscca.org
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Tony,
You mentioned your header gasket blew 5 times? that's insane...did u try to put some ES engine insert or weld a bracket to hold the header the the stock ones has? Also, try to use the spring/bolt as the stock setup...the spring will allow some flex but will constantly apply pressure to keep the two pieces totheger...BTW, what kind of DC header are you getting?
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Weld a bracket on? Na.....i figured id jus go for "a tried and true" header, the DC ONE PIECE 4 2 1.
I have ALL THREE E.S. motor mount inserts in. I used the stock spring/bolts/nuts on the cat/header connection.
Maybe im just weird, but seems like "unique" problems always plague me........I think im the ONLY JRSC GSR guy that went through pulled out axles on STREET TIRES, ON THE STREET, and at the 6psi level......Also, my JR RELAY constantly makes this REALLY LOUD clicking noise.......these problems seem to only affect me somehow.....Anyhoo, the car makes 210hp,and 158tq with NO tuning whatso-ever(no electronics/gears/etc...), cant be TOO disappointed with that!
Tony
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Dont believe me.......Check it out for yourself at http://www.etrscca.org
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The Anti-rice:
When does your JR Relay make a loud clicking sound. Do you hear it through the dash and floorboard. Reason I ask is my car makes a clicking sound when I'm on the throttle and no one has been able to find out what it is from.
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Ksig:
When does your JR Relay make a loud clicking sound. Do you hear it through the dash and floorboard. Reason I ask is my car makes a clicking sound when I'm on the throttle and no one has been able to find out what it is from. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
like cruising around looking for a parking spot in a parking lot.....cruising at 60mph in 5th gear(partial throtte).......And yes, it sounds like its comin from behind the SPEEDO or there abouts.......hell, who knows.....
Tony
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Dont believe me.......Check it out for yourself at http://www.etrscca.org
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AntiRice, the JR relay does make noise...when i first installed the JRSC, the mechanic clamped the relay onto the firewall...it would click and made this sound like the engine was pinging..Drove me nuts for a couple of weeks....I moved the relay and ziptied it to a hose and peace once again http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
BTW, what size of that DC Sports header's collector? Mine is a DC 4-2-1 but only has 2" collector. Bolt right on to stock cat and fitment is perfect
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by randomwalk101:
AntiRice, the JR relay does make noise...when i first installed the JRSC, the mechanic clamped the relay onto the firewall...it would click and made this sound like the engine was pinging..Drove me nuts for a couple of weeks....I moved the relay and ziptied it to a hose and peace once again http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
BTW, what size of that DC Sports header's collector? Mine is a DC 4-2-1 but only has 2" collector. Bolt right on to stock cat and fitment is perfect<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I tried the ZIP TIE thing.......didnt work.....wrapped it in HONDA SOUND DEADENING.....didnt work.......so,i just got used to. By it clicking, it at least lets me know its STILLWORKING!!!! http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
The DC i got is of unknown specs.....its whatever is NORMAL for a 96 GSR. Im not really at the point of spending countless hours tring to find a header that makes 2 more HP than another........The DC is tried and true, period.
Tony
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Dont believe me.......Check it out for yourself at http://www.etrscca.org
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The EVAP, or Purge Cut Soleniod also mounts to the firewall easy, and makes a clicking noise at part throttle like you describe.
Look for it near the brake proportioning valve. Mine clicks alot. I don't mind it.
Its definitely not the JR Relay, cause that thing is on the floor of my garage now http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
Joe
