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I completed my Hondata stage 4 install last night along with my RC 440cc injectors and relocated my sensors (map and intake temp).
Fired the car up for the first time, and viola! it ran, and sounded fine. only problem was my tach didnt move at all.
Shut the car off... started it again, same problem.
When inside to get the laptop and see what datalogging was telling me... fired the car up... and SHIT.. the idle was bouncing like crazy. i didnt even change anything. And it wasn't bouncing like a vacuum leak either.
After a minute or so, the CEL came on. I shorted the service connector and attempted to read the code, but it wouldnt flash.
Im somewhat stumped, and potentially in trouble since I dont have a rom burner.
You can view my datalog of the problem (notice the injector graphs)... a few seconds into it I held the engine at 3000 rpm or so to see how it sounded, and it seemed to run smooth...
http://www.partywithdan.com/jason/ohboy.rec
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btw.. im running Tom Payn's b16 @8psi rom.
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-you are going to have to get a rom burner
-if your car is OBD2 the tach wont work
-use the IAC valve setting on the hondata to help smooth out your idle
-the hondata will show you which code the car is throwing
-using someone elses rom is only good for a base map - you need to tweek it for your personal car just using that as a base to make it easy
-again - get a rom burner just like 200 bucks you have already spent the big bucks dont skimp now...
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some mods and stuff
[This message has been edited by TurboITR (edited September 29, 2001).]
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thanks for the help.. i will be getting a rom burner.
more info:
I started the car this morning and it started up and ran fine (idled at 1700 or so though).
Then after it warmed up for about 2 minutes, the bouncing idle started. no code this time.
btw, although the CEL went on last night, no code showed in the datalogger.
here is a link to this morning's datalog:
http://www.partywithdan.com/jason/saturday_morning.rec
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-rom burner = good
-once the car gets to warmer temps - sometimes the car will have a fluctuating idle like that - again changing the settings on the IAC will fix this (plus a little tuning of the maps at low RPM) and setting the "target idle"
-if the CEL light is on make sure the light on the hondata itself is solid red - sometimes when the CEL comes on it means that the hondata is not connecting to the laptop (try this if you cant get a code out of it) if that doesnt work call your local hondata dealer they should be able to help you
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some mods and stuff
[This message has been edited by TurboITR (edited September 29, 2001).]
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What ECU are you using and do you have a J&S Safeguard?
Sonny
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Sonny Van Hook ([email protected])
2000 JRSC'd Civic Si @ 6psi (Powered by Hondata)
1999 Tonykart/Honda 80cc Shifter (For Sale)
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TurboITR:
-rom burner = good
-once the car gets to warmer temps - sometimes the car will have a fluctuating idle like that - again changing the settings on the IAC will fix this (plus a little tuning of the maps at low RPM) and setting the "target idle"
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I have this "fluctuating idle" too..It's crazy..goes from 700 and jumped to 1500rpm constantly at a dead stop...How do I fix the IAC mapping to get this goes away?
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It's powered by GASOLINE damnit!!!
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TurboITR:
-if your car is OBD2 the tach wont work
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Huh http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/confused.gif Sonnyballs' Si is OBDII and his tach works fine with a Hondata equipped P28 ECU.
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Innovator of the JRSC electronic boost controller
Mods
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Yes the Tach should work fine.
I have a P72 stage 4 and mine does also.
I am running Tom Payne's map and have the idle problem also. Very erratic at this point, but sometimes it smoothes out better then stock even with the ES motor mounts in there and is perfect, so I'm sure a little specific tuning will fix it.
If your tach was working before the new ECU I'd bet there is a problem with the P28 that was modified for you.
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Turismo:
Yes the Tach should work fine.
I have a P72 stage 4 and mine does also.
I am running Tom Payne's map and have the idle problem also. Very erratic at this point, but sometimes it smoothes out better then stock even with the ES motor mounts in there and is perfect, so I'm sure a little specific tuning will fix it.
If your tach was working before the new ECU I'd bet there is a problem with the P28 that was modified for you.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Yes I'm using Tom Payne's map as well...idle is fluctuating at 800 to 1.5k at idle. But if I drive the car for like 30 mins, idle smooths out....Any cure for this?
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It's powered by GASOLINE damnit!!!
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I've found that increasing the IACV duty cycle causes the engine to have more of a tendency to bounce around near idle, especially after coming to a stop.
I've had the best results with target idle set to 800, and IACV duty cycle set to 2 clicks to the left (from the middle).
Sonny
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Sonny Van Hook ([email protected])
2000 JRSC'd Civic Si @ 6psi (Powered by Hondata)
1999 Tonykart/Honda 80cc Shifter (For Sale)
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the fluctuating idle seems to be caused by the engine dropping below target idle, so the IAC rev's and goes up to an rpm range so the ecu raises the timing.. from the datalog i got from randomwalk's car it would jump from 17 degrees up to 25, then back to 17.. mine almost idles right and my timing is 17 at 725, 18.5 at 925 and 21.25 at 1175 and IAC normal duty.. hope this helps you guys out..
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I spoke with Tom briefly on Saturday about this problem. In speaking to him I realized I didn't plug up the hole from the map sensor. I hung up the phone thinking that would do it. It didn't.
Low and behold, Monday I received an email from Doug at Hondata offering a chip program which would fix the problem.
My burner/emulator is coming shortly, then I'll provide an update.
As for the Tach, Tom mention he has seen it before, and a pin may need to be moved in the harness. He also mentioned he actually had to run the tack wire out to the distributor once.... again, update to follow.
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