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So my new wife and I take a short pre-honeymoon trip to west virginia in my 1997 ITR (see sig for setup). Drive 200 miles through the mountains, etc. No problems whatsoever. I did drive up a mountain and was in 0-1 PSI of boost for 3-4 minutes (was this insanely stupid???). Anyway, the next day we take a trip into town, again no problems. Start the car up and the check engine light comes on. Symptoms:
-the car bogs very badly upon initial acceleration and idles at 2-400 rpm.
-A/F shows very lean and then jumps to rich (almost acting opposite of what it should be doing). I have to ride the clutch and keep the revs high to even .
- When I am cruising along, the A/F shows only rich. No longer cycles btw rich and lean.
-When allowed time to cool (30 minutes) the car resumes normal behavior for a while (20 miles non boost highway followed by 3 miles non boost city stop and go) before acting up again.
I believe that when the engine is seeing boost it is cutting off the fuel. I manage to get it towed to a Honda dealer and he checked the CEL. It was a P0106 Map sensor code. He reset it and drove the car around. He said it seemed fine to him. I drove it off and after some city driving, experienced the same thing! Great honeymoon, thank goodness my wife is a patient person.
Anyway, got it towed home ($$$). Drove the car for less than a block, acting fine, then whan I hit boost everything started back up. The car is obviously undrivable and is my only means of transit. Sorry if this has come up before and has an obvious cure that I have not read but could someone help me out here?
I?m thinking the JR MAP unit might have gone bad??? Can I temporarily disable it to find out? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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1997 type-r #164
JRSC 6psi
JR BTC
JR MAP unit
Comptech Intake
A/F and Boost gauges
B&M fuel pressure gauge
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Why dont you just reset the ECU again? Then dont go into boost for the mean time while you figure out what it is.
Are you sure it was a P0106, because I dont seem to have that code on my chart? I have a P0107 code 3 on my code chart.
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98 GSR Rev-Hard Turbo kit
277whp 200ft/lbs.
Arturbo Downpipes
[This message has been edited by ArturboGSR98 (edited September 30, 2001).]
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Also, why dont you check the code out yourself to see what you are getting?
art
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98 GSR Rev-Hard Turbo kit
277whp 200ft/lbs.
Arturbo Downpipes
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Thanks for the quick response! I see 3 short flashes only. MAP sensor code. Hmmph.
I am not 100% sure that boost alone is causing the CEL. When it was reset by honda and I drove it I don't beleive I was in boost when it reoccured (could be wrong, tho). Then today, I reset the ECU and boost definitely caused the problem.
Would tying the bypass valve to open be an even better way to insure that I can at least get to work?
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1997 type-r #164
JRSC 6psi
JR BTC
JR MAP unit
Comptech Intake
A/F and Boost gauges
B&M fuel pressure gauge
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Sounds like symptoms i had when my JR MAP MOD was installed. I did not get a CEL, but the car acted just exactly like you were describing.....actually, its SCARY how perfectly you described what was happening.....mine did EXACTLY the same.
The problem......Bad JR Map Mod. Put Old "clicker" JR Relay back on......nooooooooooo problems
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1996 Acura Integra GSR, JRSC@9psi, Drag raced WEEKLY, Autocrossed MONTHLY, and ALWAYS DAILY DRIVEN! [email protected] in the 1/8th, shootin for 8.3's with the 9psi and M/T's!
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Is there an easy way to disable the map unit? Would disconnecting the ground from the map unit and reconnecting the jr fuel relay be all that is needed, or would I have to unsolder everything?
That would really be a bummer to unsolder everything only to find out it was something else.
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1997 type-r #164
JRSC 6psi
JR BTC
JR MAP unit
Comptech Intake
A/F and Boost gauges
B&M fuel pressure gauge
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by satitus:
Is there an easy way to disable the map unit? Would disconnecting the ground from the map unit and reconnecting the jr fuel relay be all that is needed, or would I have to unsolder everything?
That would really be a bummer to unsolder everything only to find out it was something else.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Yes, the tech had to COMPLETELY remove the JR MAP MOD. There may be some other way, but im not 100% on that.
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1996 Acura Integra GSR, JRSC@9psi, Drag raced WEEKLY, Autocrossed MONTHLY, and ALWAYS DAILY DRIVEN! [email protected] in the 1/8th, shootin for 8.3's with the 9psi and M/T's!
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Off topic, but what's up with JR's quality control? I've seen and heard of so many JR electronics boxes (Prelude control box, BTC, Map mod) being bad brand new.
Who makes their stuff for them?
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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @10psi, All the Goodies!
Best 1/4 ==> 13.556 @ 105.29mph
My JRSC Install Site
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Wow, that's bad luck! Let me know if there's anything I can do.
Bill
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Its a P0107 which is a code 3 in the helms. I also think you need to find out what the tech did to make sure he didnt disconnet something that wasnt supposed to.
art
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98 GSR Rev-Hard Turbo kit
277whp 200ft/lbs.
Arturbo Downpipes
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I think I have this EXACT same problem in my car right now..My car is basically DEAD right now....I don't even ahve the JR Map sensor...just a GSR w/ jrsc and Hondata.
The original map sensor was relocated to the JR intake manifold (simply plug the original hole and put the vaccum hose attaching it to the JR intake). Wire wasn't even disconnected in the process. Car was fine for like a month now until yesterday...
Three *very* quick blink followed by a brief pause....Code 3 = map sensor problem... I'm trying to figure out what the heck is the problem is right now http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/frown.gif
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It's powered by GASOLINE damnit!!!
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Oh Noooo! I am really hoping that it is a faulty JR map unit. Just seems strange that after a short cool down the car behaves normally. I'm gonna disconnect the map unit tonite and hope for the best.
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Hey if you look back a week or so I started a thread talking about a CEL 03 problem that I had.. It's pretty similar to what you're talking about.. I got a CEL 03 and the car just started idling and running like shit.
Anyway I discovered that my problem was the ground connection for the JR MAP Mod.. Where (exactly) did you connect the ring connector for the ground wire?
Richard
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98 GSR driven everywhere.
Akimoto intake, MSD 6a, Magnecor 8.5mm, Autometer A/F,Boost,F/P, B&M F/P, NGK BKR7E, JRSC, JR MAP Mod, Walbro GSS-342.
Ex-Squeezer.
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The voltage clamp in the MAP controller is not clamping. This means that one of the connections is intermittent or has come undone from the time that you originally did the install or the ground is not good enough. It is that simple. To date we have not had a bad electronics of any kind. We have had bad connectors put on by customers and in 3 cases by our manufacturer. One just Friday on a Prelude box. So check all 4 connections. Both of the MAP wire connections, the power connection and the ground connection for a good connector and for a good ground. One has come loose. Any one of these being loose and as soon as you see boost the CEL for MAP will come on.
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Not sure where the ground was wired. Had it done by a shop about 3 months ago with absolutely no problems. Then, one trip into the mountains and whammo, it started up. I'll check the ground and all connections tonite, before I disconnect it completely. That would be great if it were a simple ground wire. Still seems fishy that a cool off period resets the problem.
Just realized that most of my trips are without a passenger around. Perhaps she loosened a wire. The map unit is at the very front of the passenger floor.
[This message has been edited by satitus (edited October 01, 2001).]
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So I _think_ that my problem has been solved. I?m going to post what I did/found out for future searches, etc.
Basically, I removed map converter completely. Initially forgot to re-install the JR relay+pressure switch and the car ran very lean going into boost but didn?t throw a CEL. DUH, remembered the relay/switches and once installed the car ran almost like before (I?ve gotten used to the smooth boost transition with the MAP converter). No CELs thrown after lots of driving, so I'm thinking I may have eliminated a bad MAP converter. I then completely replaced the connections for the MAP+ECU using wiring clips (so that I could easily add/remove these connections in the future). After a 30 mile drive in today with some serious boosting, I experienced no CEL! I?m really hoping that there was simply a poor connection that I was able to fix. If I throw another CEL, I?m willing to bet it is something internal in the MAP converter. We?ll see. Also, here is some info from Oscar for one to try if they suspect a bad converter:
?What you might have him do is connect the MAP controller ground wire to the actual MAP sensor ground wire instead of a chassis ground. That way you know you are working just with the MAP system. But, basically you should be seeing a voltage of around 1 volt at idle coming from the MAP sensor at idle and no more than 2.9 while in Boost. IF you are seeing more than 2.7-2.9 while in boost the MAP controller isn't working. Or, if you can get him hooked to a scan tool, 30kpa at idle, 90-100 kpa with key on/ engine off. 108 max kpa in boost.?
O
I?d like to thank everyone for responding particularly 2kbill for all the help with wiring and Jrcivic for the phone help. I hope this is the last time I post on this particular matter?..
