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Oh well. I guess I should have seen it coming. I was passing someone on a local feeder road at WOT and heard a smacking sound in front of me (in the engine compartment) followed by a lot of rattling and flapping noises. I tightened the old sphincter muscles and turned the stereo down to listen more closely. The car was running, no smoke in the rear view mirror, but very little power. - Checked under the hood and sure enough the S/C belt had snapped and shredded. I spent the next 15 minutes picking little fibers out from all over the engine compartment!!!
Well I guess I have to call JR for another belt. how much are those things anyway, and how much should I expect it to cost to install the thing?
My car is a couple of thousand short of running out of the warrantee. I was going to bring it in soon to JEA for some last minute adjustments while still under warrantee anyway. I was thinking I should have the (second) pulley (black anodized one) replaced as well as It has some pretty nasty wear. Is this covered under the JR warrantee and if not how much might this set me back? My wear looks like sjoback's does in his show nd tell post, except the wear is more pronounced and has a NAST ridge that sticks up about 2-3 mm up the middle of the wearing area. Another belt in the engine compartment has a bunch of the grooves(ridges) chewed apart as well so I guess I'll need it replaced as well. Oh well.
The car runs like it is dragging a parachute behind it. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/frown.gif
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Tom
1996 Cypress Green Pearl Acura Integra GSR 4 DR
JRSC with JR fuel pump upgrade
J&S Safeguard
Tokico Illumina Shocks & Eibach Pro-kit Springs
Stillen/Brembo Cross-Drilled Rotors with Goodridge SS Lines & EBC Green Stuff Pads
Kumho ECSTA Supra 712s (205 45 16) on (Heavy)Chrome 3-spoke Procast rims(street)
Kumho V700 Victoracers (205 50 15) on 15x7 rims (autocross)
Century infant and booster child seats in back!!!
1995 Mercury Villager GS Minivan
General Electric Turbofan 48,000 lbs/thrust (needs some tuning...)
Retractable wheels
Twin phaser banks
Electronic countermeasures
Triphasic shielding
12 cupholders
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1) You don't need to call JR. Get a 620mm 4 rib belt at any parts store. The number on the package will be like "4PK620" or in inches, "4PK245" (that's 24.5").
The person at the counter will probably go slack-jawed after you fail to provide them with a car make and model to punch into their parts computer. If the belts are behind the counter, talk your way in.
2) Use a zip-tie to permanently hold the by-pass open.
Greg
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Hahahaha http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
Been there done that. Isn't it about the suckiest feeling in the world?? Just to add insult to injury, a jerk off in a civic ex was reving at me when I was down and out! Just ain't right I tell you! As for the belt, get one at the parts store and give me a call. I will put it in for you.. you wimp! http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif But still call JR and have them send you a belt and pulley. Never hurts to have more than one you know? Cuz trust me.. this wont be the last time this will happen to you! I had to go a week in limp mode http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/frown.gif
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random.. the butterfly that holden is talkin about is the one that opens on the when you floor it. Get under your hood, follow the throttle cable and push down on the spring loaded "thingy" at the throttle body, then watch the jr manifold, the black cylinder will move. You would zip tie that thing open. Yes you can drive around w/o a belt on the sc'r, although you will wish you hadn't waited til it popped. Trust me.. it sucks. It feels like you are pulling a 3 ton trailer behind you. No power or torque what-so ever. But it is very drivable.
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Thanks for the info!!! http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
Holden: Why do I need to hold the bypass open?
Gsrev: (Insert crotchety Leonard McCoy expression) Dammit Alex, I'm a doctor not a mechanic.
Give me a break. Two years ago, I could barely check my own oil. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/redface.gif I learned a lot during that brake upgrade, thanks to you. I've even bled them once since then - the misses getting a little annoyed with having to pump the brake pedal so many times though! I even figured out the losse knock sensor problem myself, so http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/tongue.gif to you!!! http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
Anyway, I still am pretty pathetic under the hood, but I am working on it thanks to ALL of you guys!!!
BTW- is it hard to change that pulley?
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If you don't hold the bypass open, as soon as you floor it, the bypass will close and air will have to travel through the non-spinning blower. The engine basically chokes.
Greg
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Is the JRSC belt prone to snap like this???
The manual said that over tighten the belt will cause it to wear out prematurally. I guess this is the case here??
Holden, which one is the the butterfly to zip it open? Can you drive the car around without the charger's belt on???
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I get it now.
I took a look and see what you're talking about. Looking at the bypass more closely it woukld appear that when idling, the bypass is open. Reving the engine abruptly, when it "closes" it looks as though the "spring" is pulled back towards the firefall, right.
My next question. How do I place the zip tie to keep that from happening - what do I zip tie to what?
Sorry to sound like such a knucklehead (Go ahead - take a pot shot, Alex) but I don't want to screw anything up while zip tying the wrong thing.
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I never looked at the problem hard enough to have a ready answer. I put a 10" zip tie in my glove box and forgot about it. Around the S-neck maybe?
You found the right thing. It needs to stay where it is at idle.
Greg
[This message has been edited by Holden (edited September 02, 2000).]
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Tom..
I know YOU know that I was joking http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif And that you know that I am more than willing to help you. If it were up to me, I would go to your casa right now and zip it for you, but unfortunely my chic is making me go to her family reunion in bay city, and monday I have to work a 24 hour shift.. but if you still need help I am available tuesday at around 10am??? But I also realize you work.. but lets see... think of something and let me know... I can do it at nite too (after 9p) if you are up to it! We'll get your car out of limp mode somehow. For the meantime.. I think you said you have a timing gun.. set it to stock. Line up the red mark on the pulley w/ the piece of plastic on the timing cover. (if you have a reg timing gun w/o a timing wheel on it)..
Matter of fact call me @home if you have any questions.. got my number?
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First off: RESET YOUR TIMING BACK TO STOCK!!!
The same thing happened to me last week, SUCKED.
As for the belt, USE ONLY THE BANDO BELT. The Gates belt is too big and WILL NOT FIT. It will make the pulleys rub.
Call Jackson. They should send ya a belt (they sent me one.)
I ran my car without the bypass zip tied, but you cannot floor it... a good side effect is that your gas milage will SKYROCKET!!!
They are a pain to change, but see what Holden devised tool wise in a post from about two weeks ago entitled "What size belt from alt to blower" he has a cool socket rig.
May the forced be with you.
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96 Integra RS w/ JRSC 6psi, and a whole bunch of other stuff that has broken the bank.
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Yeah I will go ahead and change the timing back up.
Alex - Yeah man I know you were kidding - just a little self depreciating humor aimed at myself http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif. I appreciate your offer, but looking a little closer at the situation, it appears as though at least one other belt (I don't know which on it is (alternator, A/C, power steering - whatever!!), looks horrible - the ribs on the insider are all chewed up and there are some huge aps in the ribbing - that can't be good. Since I have to bring the car in one of these days, I might as well have all these belts changed - right? Again, I appreciate the offer, but I don't want to take advantage of you, buddy - besides I know I still owe you a dinner, right?
BTW - I want to thank all of you for making this board such a tremendous resource. It's great for all you great minds who want to extract all you can from these engines and also for numbnuts like me who (at one time) would have known an intake from an exhaust!!!
THANKS VTeCno Geek FOR STARTING IT ALL!!!
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Well I finally got off my but and got a timing gun WITH the timing wheel on it. I set my timing to 15 and MY OH MY what a difference. It's a good lesson to point out the difference timing makes. The car feels much more lively - (say only pulling a 1000 lb trailer instead of a 3000 lb one! http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif) Before, with the timing set at 9 I had trouble getting the car to rev above 5K. reving beyond that seemed to only make more noise and felt like it was straining the engine. Now it will rev up high much more freely. I could never figure out a way to keep the bypass locked - Oh well, I am dropping the car off on Monday for the new idler pulley and belt(s).
At least the trailer will be a little lighter for the weekend....
