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It's in. The .pdf instructions Lundgren posted were right on the money.
On my 96 GSR, the crank position sensor wire was solid BLUE at the ECU. Not blue/green.
Anyway, it's all zipped up now, but I didn't finish untill after everyone in my household was asleep, so I couldn't set the timing last night.
With 8 degrees static timing and the BTC knob on the 1st click over minimum, it drives just like it always did! (No surprise, but I'll take that to mean it's installed properly).
I'll set timing to 16 degrees at lunch and have some real comments this evening.
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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @6psi, AEM CAI/RSR 4-2-1/Greddy PE, Cartech 20005/Walbro GSS-342, KYB AGX/H&R OE Sport/ST 19mm Rear Swaybar
Best 1/4 ==> 13.937 @ 101.41mph
My JRSC Install Site
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It's definitely installed correctly because, as others have noted:
1) Runs like before at 10 clicks.
2) Large lack of power at 16 clicks.
At 6 clicks, I don't feel a huge difference. The 0-2psi transition is smoother, but it is much easier to induce tip-in detonation.
Before, at 8 degrees timing, it was near impossible to induce detonation. At 10 degrees, I had to really drive stupid to make it happen.
Now at 16 degrees and 6 clicks, it is easy to do (by driving like I never drive, but it's still there).
I will likely stay at 6 clicks until I get a J&S. For what it has done for me at 6psi boost, I don't think it's worth it. I do however, trust the opinions of some of the guys at 8, 9 and 10psi who say that things get much "lumpier" at those boost levels and that the BTC helps a lot.
Since 10psi is in my future, I don't regret getting the BTC. I wouldn't recommend it for folks at 6psi unless they have nothing better to do to their car.
We'll see. I've only put 20 miles on the car with the BTC.
Greg
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Rafe: The way I was easily inducing detonation was by slowly going to WOT (2 seconds from cruise to WOT) in a stupidly low gear (4th at 40mph).
Your TPS gadget might help this. Are you ready to cough up the details?
Greg
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Cough, cough... Man, I got like 3 hours of sleep last night. I feel almost like a blabbering idiot at this point. The night before wasn't too much better. OK, hang on I'll pull my thoughts together.
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Thanks, Rafe. Hey, if you get too punchy when you write up your post about your gadget, go ahead and get some shut-eye and come back to it later. Crossed wires, bad.
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'00ITR#739
JRSC, JR Walbro FP, JR intake, J&S SafeGuard, JR BTC
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Holden,
Running 6psi and I'm pleased with my BTC... car really was not "drivable" without it....
My opinion: Everyone needs a BTC. Remember when it was hot this past summer? I would have killed to be able to retard my timing so I could drive with a passenger, A/C, and suitcases in the back..... so,
Jackson made my $200 rebate back, I'm not as worried about ruining my car.
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96 Integra RS w/JRSC @ 6psi.
DC DAC Intake (cut)
DC Front+Rear Strut Bars
DC Rear Lower Tie Bar
DC Short Shifter
Eneki 15" Wheels
Toyo Proxes FZ-4
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs
Powerstop Rotors Front+Rear
DC Ceramic 4-2-1 Header
DC Stainless Exhaust
Axxis MetalMaster Pads
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Piaa 1100 Driving Lamps
Mugen Thermostat
Mugen Cap
Jackson Racing BTC
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I do recommend the BTC, even for 6psi. At 6psi you might be at 2 clicks or so however.
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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/
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Just installed mine last night. Man, that ECU and metal frame was a biioootch to remove and put back together. Anyway, it defintely works. Compared to everyone else I have mine set very conservatively at 1 degree retard per lb. w/ 15 TDC based on the fact that I was running at 9 degrees before. Without J&S and guages, I didn't want to take any chances. Took me awhile to figure where to have it installed. I have the controller screwed down in the glove box and unit is under seat on floor board. SUPER-CLEAN.
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Let me just add that while I was happy with drivability at 8 degrees, I never use the AC and the temperature rarely hits 90F here.
That could account for seeing less improvement.
I need to put more miles on the car and get a better feel for it.
Greg
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by lundgren:
I do recommend the BTC, even for 6psi. At 6psi you might be at 2 clicks or so however.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Was there more to that Lund?
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1998' 4dr GSR, 8psi JRSC w/hand ported plenum, Walbro HP fuel pump, valves set to .005i/.006e, MSD BTM, B&M CommandFlo regulator(working it out), stock intake w/resinator cut off at fenderwell for "cool air", Greddy sp exhaust, Tokico Illumina 5-ways, Neuspeed springs(sux!), Skunkworks 22mm rear swaybar, ES motor mounts and front swaybar bushings, Yokohama AVS 205/50/15's, Metal Master brake pads(KVR Carbon Fibre pads sitting on work bench) ,B&M fuel pressure gauge, Autometer sport comp A/F gauge in dimmer location...
YLW 00' ITR #00-1011 with AEM CAI and 143db triple air horns
Honest officer, I had no idea how fast I was going...the speedometer only gos to 150...
Get paid to surf the Web!!! http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=TUD-039
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cpa: 4th gear at 3000rpms is just an easy place to set up the following conditions to test for a propensity to detonate:
1) RPM's near 4000 - aka The danger zone
2) Boosting
3) Throttle NOT at WOT
4) ECU still in closed loop
When starting at 3000rpms in 4th gear, if you SLOWLY go to WOT, until the throttle is open enough to put the ECU into open loop, you get detonation.
From the same starting point, if you immediately floor it, you go right into open loop and don't get much (if any) detonation.
On a dyno run, you'd go right to WOT, so you wouldn't have the detonation problems. Also, the load on the engine is smaller on a dyno than on a road.
Greg
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Stupid question, but why does a pull in a higher gear from lower RPM induce detonation more easily? In theory, would you then have to set the BTC at a higher retard per lb. of boost on a fourth gear dyno pull starting from say 2,000 RPM, as compared to normal driving/shifting conditions?
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After driving more, it does smooth things out under 2K rpm.
I guess it just never bothered me the way it drove before.
Greg
