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So, who wants to talk about the best way to stroke an H22A to 2.4L? Whaddaya think that'll do when I put a blower on it? I wanna plan my road to 350 HP.
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99 Prelude SH
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The world isn't run by weapons anymore, or energy, or money. It's run by little ones and zeros, little bits of data---it's all just electrons.
2.4L ? Is that possible?
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95 EX w/JDM B16
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by hopen_luder:
accord crank and pistons should get you there.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
My first thoughts were that an H23 crank and rod set, paired with 90mm Endyn pistons would get the job done nicely. Anyone see issues with that setup?
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99 Prelude SH
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The world isn't run by weapons anymore, or energy, or money. It's run by little ones and zeros, little bits of data---it's all just electrons.
WTF? that's an interesting Topic title. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
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accord crank and pistons should get you there.
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Why lose the high-rpm balance of the H22 crank ??? The H23 crank may have a longer stroke, but it also reduces rod-ratio... increase the bore and leave it at that. This will give you over 2300cc with the 90mm bore... that is an additional 151cc over the stock displacement.
This is EXACTLY what I did with the Aurora project.
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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
Didn't JUN make a stroker kit for the H22A Prelude? I'm sure it's overpriced but it's available for those with an endless budget.
Marc
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Marc:
Didn't JUN make a stroker kit for the H22A Prelude? I'm sure it's overpriced but it's available for those with an endless budget.
Marc<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
My budget isn't small, but it's hardly endless. Regardless, the JUN stroker "kit" for the H22 is a "custom" kit. It's not a billet crank, it's a shaved OEM crank, with replacement rods and pistons. Jim, wouldn't this lower the rod ratio similarly to the H23 crank?
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99 Prelude SH
--------------------
The world isn't run by weapons anymore, or energy, or money. It's run by little ones and zeros, little bits of data---it's all just electrons.
[This message has been edited by UberLude (edited August 24, 2001).]
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JRCivic:
Why lose the high-rpm balance of the H22 crank ??? The H23 crank may have a longer stroke, but it also reduces rod-ratio... increase the bore and leave it at that. This will give you over 2300cc with the 90mm bore... that is an additional 151cc over the stock displacement.
This is EXACTLY what I did with the Aurora project.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Hrm. So, what kind of benefits do you think I can extract from this (a 2.3L set-up via boring to 90mm)? Cost-benefit wise, does the cash spent on pistons, rods, boring, sleeving, honing, and headwork justify the power gains? If I'm aiming for a 325 HP supercharged H22A, do you think this is the way to get there?
Cheers,
Ben
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99 Prelude SH
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The world isn't run by weapons anymore, or energy, or money. It's run by little ones and zeros, little bits of data---it's all just electrons.
I'm with Jim on this one...
Bore it. Then again, Jim, you went a tad on the insane side didn't you? lol My only question, is hows the longevity/streetablilty of that bore for every day driving? That's why I stuck with 89mm, and I have 2.35. I have enough troubles as it is.
When you take into consideration the fact that the H22A1 is 2.157L to begin with and you bore it to 89mm (2.35), then you're adding .2L onto it.
However, the 90mm bore did look pretty...
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"It seemed like a good idea at the time..."
Drive it like you stole it.
If it isn't broken, fix it till it is.
http://www.hondaprelude.com/setups/s...gen=4&orderby=
Todd,
If your current bore size is 89mm (3.504"), then your displacement will be 2257cc.
At the time of my engine build, I chose 90mm simply because it was the only available ring size at the time... I am using rings made for the Acura Vigor. My current displacement is 2308cc. I battled the rod-ratio issue by creating a longer rod coupled with a special piston with the pin location moved up higher into the skirt... closer to the underside of the piston dome.
Using the stock sleeved block, Honda claims a bore service limit of 87.070mm. This means that in order to bore the block safely to either 88, 89 or even 90mm... you MUST re-sleeve the block using solid iron sleeves.
With a ductile iron sleeve job, I see no reason why this block should not handle all of the rigors handed down by the typical daily driven engine.
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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JRCivic:
Todd,
If your current bore size is 89mm (3.504"), then your displacement will be 2257cc.
At the time of my engine build, I chose 90mm simply because it was the only available ring size at the time... I am using rings made for the Acura Vigor. My current displacement is 2308cc. I battled the rod-ratio issue by creating a longer rod coupled with a special piston with the pin location moved up higher into the skirt... closer to the underside of the piston dome.
Using the stock sleeved block, Honda claims a bore service limit of 87.070mm. This means that in order to bore the block safely to either 88, 89 or even 90mm... you MUST re-sleeve the block using solid iron sleeves.
With a ductile iron sleeve job, I see no reason why this block should not handle all of the rigors handed down by the typical daily driven engine.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
JRCivic, what was your source for the rods and pistons. If you've gone this route, perhaps duplicating your work will save me some headaches? I was thinking about the endyn rollerwave pistons, which are being produced in a 90mm bore for the H22A. I would assume these have the pin in a good spot. As for the rods, I haven't crossed that bridge yet. Did you get them from Eagle or Crower?
Cheers,
Ben
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99 Prelude SH
--------------------
The world isn't run by weapons anymore, or energy, or money. It's run by little ones and zeros, little bits of data---it's all just electrons.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JRCivic:
Ben,
Crower did a custom set of rods for me in TITANIUM !!! The cost for the set of four rods was $3172.00. JE is responsible for the pistons, which are also custom manufactured... price was $1288.00 for the set including high retention rings. If you are interested in the rod-ratio geometry that I used in my set-up, I am certain that I can duplicate it in a steel rod for FAR LESS money.
Let me know if I can help.
Jim
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Is having the rods in titanium really worth the extra $2+g's? I was thinking of getting titanium valves as part of a crower valvetrain (the Eibach valve springs and titanium retainers), so I can boost the revs up to 9k+.
I just don't want to pay 5x the money for 1.5x the performance. Ya'know?
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99 Prelude SH
--------------------
The world isn't run by weapons anymore, or energy, or money. It's run by little ones and zeros, little bits of data---it's all just electrons.
Ben,
Crower did a custom set of rods for me in TITANIUM !!! The cost for the set of four rods was $3172.00. JE is responsible for the pistons, which are also custom manufactured... price was $1288.00 for the set including high retention rings. If you are interested in the rod-ratio geometry that I used in my set-up, I am certain that I can duplicate it in a steel rod for FAR LESS money.
Let me know if I can help.
Jim
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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
Ben,
Honestly, for a street car... I do not think that the Titanium Rods are worth the expenditure. At the time, reducing rotating mass was a huge concern: I lightened EVERY part in the shortblock. The gains on a street car are probably not worth the high cost of doing this.
I can build a custom set of Crower rods with the longer rod length for about 1/3 the price of the titanium ones... and they are almost as strong.
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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JRCivic:
Ben,
Honestly, for a street car... I do not think that the Titanium Rods are worth the expenditure. At the time, reducing rotating mass was a huge concern: I lightened EVERY part in the shortblock. The gains on a street car are probably not worth the high cost of doing this.
I can build a custom set of Crower rods with the longer rod length for about 1/3 the price of the titanium ones... and they are almost as strong.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Longer rods, with the wrist pin on the pistons moved up to compensate. If you're spending that kinda dough, why not a custom crank instead, and more displacement?
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99 Prelude SH
--------------------
The world isn't run by weapons anymore, or energy, or money. It's run by little ones and zeros, little bits of data---it's all just electrons.