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This thing is absolutely beautifull! Rafe should get a medal or something. Every JRSC Honda should put this on ASAP!!!
I am a harsh critic, and I can't say enough how well this works. Here's the details:
- I CANNOT INDUCE DETONATION ANYMORE!!! No matter how hard I tried. 40mph, 4th gear, 1/2 throttle, boosting? NO PROBLEM! This is at 16 degrees timing, JR BTC at 6 clicks over minimum, 94 octane gas, 6psi boost.
- As soon as boost hits 1psi, the A/F gauge goes rich, just like at WOT.
- Throttle response is unchanged.
- No CE lights.
- Onset of power delivery seems quicker. (It may have been the cold pavement, 50F, but rolling WOT starts in 1st gear broke free immediately.)
Really, everyone should immediately go to www.radioshack.com and order this.
BTW, on the relay socket I got from RadioShack, here's how the colors mapped. Check yours in case it's different.
Red = +12VDC
Purple = Ground
Yellow = To ECU
White = Fake TPS signal (resistor circuit)
Blue = Real TPS signal
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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @6psi, AEM CAI/RSR 4-2-1/Greddy PE, Cartech 20005/Walbro GSS-342, KYB AGX/H&R OE Sport/ST 19mm Rear Swaybar
Best 1/4 ==> 13.937 @ 101.41mph
My JRSC Install Site
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That's great to hear Greg! It sounds like there's promise that the mod will work on a lot of cars. I'm really curious about ITRs though. Is anyone with an ITR going to try this?
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I already see the gas gauge dropping... http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif
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Except for one wire listed as green/blue actually being green/black, Rafe's instructions were right on the money.
I checked all the voltages and the result of the resistor circuit and everything was exactly as Rafe said (within the accuracy of my meter at least).
I'll drive it tomorrow.
Thanks Rafe. I would have never figured this out myself in a million years.
Greg
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Greg,
Let us know how it drives... pay particular attention to the throttle response.
Jim
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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
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Greg, thanks for being the guinnea pig, so to speak. Sounds like Rafe's trick works like a charm. I'm definitely going to give this a try and let you guys know if it works for ITR's. But, it'll be a while because I'm busy working through my disaster at the dyno (with alot of help from Lundgren).
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Greg,
One thing though. Weren't some if not all of the '96 GSRs equipped with OBD II software that's a bit more tolerant? Was the ECU updated?
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Can someone explain to me what this does so I can figure out if it's worth it? I have a 96 OBD-II LS-T http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
later
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Okay...for verification and electronically challenged individuals (MYSELF and probably I'm the only one here http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/frown.gif ) here is the wiring for dummy. Please take a look and see if it is correct.
blue (87) ---> TPS (red/blk)
yellow (30)--> ECU (red/blk)
white (87a)--> middle of resistors
red (86) ----> blk/yellow wire on JR relay
purple (85)--> black wire on JR relay
for the red (86) wire, instead of wiring it up to the blk/yellow wire on JR relay (which is in the engine's bay), can it be tapped to the blk/yellow wire on the ECU or the same wire the supplies the +12v to the J&S and BTC??
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randomwalk:
That matches what I did. I wouldn't count on all the relays having the same color scheme.
Your's is the same as the one I got.
Greg
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Rafe:
I believe you are correct. Mine is one of the early 96's (bought in 3/96). It has gotten that emmisions recall with all the inspections and free ignition parts, although I haven't gone in for it and might not.
My bet is that this matters not. We'll see soon enough.
jpcaudill:
This mod won't matter much on a turbo because you don't get as much part thottle boost. That's the root of the supercharger detonation problems.
Greg
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Holden,
Whats your gas mileage look like after this mod???
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1998' 4dr GSR, 8psi JRSC w/hand ported plenum, Walbro HP fuel pump, valves set to .005i/.006e, MSD BTM, B&M CommandFlo regulator(working it out), stock intake w/resinator cut off at fenderwell for "cool air", Greddy sp exhaust, Tokico Illumina 5-ways, Neuspeed springs(sux!), Skunkworks 22mm rear swaybar, ES motor mounts and front swaybar bushings, Yokohama AVS 205/50/15's, Metal Master brake pads(KVR Carbon Fibre pads sitting on work bench) ,B&M fuel pressure gauge, Autometer sport comp A/F gauge in dimmer location...
YLW 00' ITR #00-1011 with AEM CAI and 143db triple air horns
Honest officer, I had no idea how fast I was going...the speedometer only gos to 150...
Get paid to surf the Web!!! http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=TUD-039
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I'll let you know. I never even got in a full tank with the BTC! It might take me 2 weeks to go through a tank.
I used to get 26mpg very steadily before the BTC and the TPS relay.
Greg
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Just installed the TPS trick this evening.. It works like a champ. Everything works as expected (looking at the a/f gauge). Since I never had detonation to begin with so I can't really tell with the mod. I'm sure it helps eliminate those inaudible ones. Throttle seems to be a little more responsive..but it may be my imagination http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
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Just for full disclosure here:
My idle now takes 20 seconds to calm down. It slowly bobs from 1000rpm to 1200rpm for that time period, then calms down to a steady 700rpm.
Most likely this is due to a small vacuum leak I created while installing the TPS wiring or because of the new, cold temperatures here (30's all weekend). Does the ECU "learn" seasons?
But it could be some type of side affect to the TPS trick. I doubt it though.
I'll keep you posted when I fix this.
Greg
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I haven't noticed this at all, or any other ill effects for that matter. How did you create a vaccuum leak?
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I don't know. I'm just guessing. But right in the same area where I was muscling the TPS and MAP harnesses are plenty of suspects.
In order to splice into the TPS harness, I pulled it (and the MAP harness) around to the front side of the intake piping for more slack. (Then shoved it back for re-install). A vacuum line/connection may have been bumped during this.
Greg
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No funny idle here. Idle is rock steady at 750 - 800 rpm... when installing the TPS trick relay, I removed the intake pipe (short ram) and everything was accessible.
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Mine does this too... just when u start the car cold... idles from 1700 to 2000... and bobs back and forth.... in my case it was caused and is still caused by a vacum leak... i run a bleeder to control boost... and off the exhaust ports of the bleeder i havnt put back the check valves after i was playing around with the setup...
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MDA:
I had a problem like that once right after my install, but fixed the leak pronto because it was throwing IAC codes.
My current situation only happens when the car is fully warm (water temp gauge at just under 1/2). Even then, it only happens when say you're driving and come up to a stoplight. Then, rpms go back and forth slowly between 1000 and 1200 a few times before settling down to a steady 700.
I'm going to drive on it for a while because I think it may just be the cold. Anyone else have 30F degree temps right now? 1/2" of snow yesterday. WooHooo!!!
Greg
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i just ordered the parts for use on my 99 civic si. ill let you know if all is the same (should have checked before i ordered the parts huh?) http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
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Yeah man ... Im in Toronto... it's damn cold ....
As for my VAC leak, i know that it's my problem... cuz i have the ends wide open.... and just havnt fixed it... fortunatly it doesnt through codes on me.. so no real rush. ahha ...
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My symptoms must be from a vacuum leak or the ECU's handling of the cold. It did not happen at lunch today.
I remember something like this happening to me last winter that went away with warmer weather.
It's so minor a may not bother to fix it.
Greg
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Would there be any benefit to wiring a switch to this circuit that could be mounted somewhere to enable/disable the circuit easily. It would allow for easy testing of strange symptoms.
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'98 GSR JRSC with all sorts of high-performance, high-tech, overpriced stuff packed in all over the place.
http://www.donia.org/clandestine
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Holden, the rising / falling idle symptoms you describe sound the same as I (and many others) get with factory ZC CRXs - the universal fix is to bleed the coolant system. Yeah, it is a long way from ZCs to tegs, but it may be worth a try.
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man walks into a bar with an ostrich and a cat, all night the man and the ostrich get up and buy the drinks.
At the end of the night, the barman asks the man why he drinks with an ostrich and a cat, and why does the cat never buy the drinks.
The man replies "I once met a Genie, and for my one wish, I asked for a long legged bird with a tight pussy..."
Perhaps you have to be Scottish to find that funny.
[This message has been edited by Joe/UK (edited October 31, 2000).]
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After more driving on it, I'm sure it's a vacuum leak. It feels just like one. I just have to find it.
nexusone:
Simply moving the purple (ground) wire (from the relay to the pressure switch) to connect to ground instead of the pressure switch will disable the "trick".
Greg
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It was a vacuum leak.
I put hose clamps on all the vacuum lines running out of the manifold (6 for the FPR and BTC lines, 6 for the OE FPR and Boost Gauge lines) last night. After that, the only non-clamped vacuum lines were between the PCS and S-neck. I didn't feel like going under the car last night, so I just crossed my fingers that the 12 hose clamps I installed caught the leak.
They did. Idle is back to normal/perfect. I don't know if the BTC install 2 weeks ago introduced the leak or if cold weather started a leak where there wasn't one in warm weather.
FYI: I should have had clamps on these hoses from the start. Losing vacuum to the FPR's is bad news and high boost can blow the lines off. I really meant to do this after LostSOL (right person?) blew her engine this way, but I'm a champion procrastinator.
Greg
