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I'm getting ready to up the boost to 9psi and was considering getting the 160 degree thermostat Jackson Racing sells. I have seen 160 thermstats at Track Auto for like $3.50 and I was just wondering if I could just use that instead of paying $10 + shipping for a JR one.
Thanks
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JRSC @ 6psi
Custom Cold Air Box
Field SFC-VTEC controller
Nuespeed shortshifter
Thermal R&D Stealth
Kamikaze headers
Skunk 2 Cam Gears
Ground Control Coilovers w/ KYB AGX shocks
Random Tech. High-flow cat.
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You'd probably be fine with the $3.50 thermostat - they're cheap parts no matter where you get them. None of them are high precision pieces. I have the JR one. My temp gauge doesn't really read any lower, but my engine feels a tad cooler to the touch after driving. It was easy enough to install. Some advice: Removing the intake tube and the throttle cable bracket at the throttle body will allow for extra room to get that lower bolt off the thermostat housing. Be sure to remove the ECT sensor before attempting to get the lower bolt as well. Remember to turn you heater on full before you drain your coolant.
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2001 GS-R, JSRC 6psi, DC Headers, AEM CAI, Tanabe G-Power Exhaust, H&R Sport Springs, Tokico 5-Way Adjustables, MufflerTech Custom Test Pipe, 17" 5-Zigen GT8 Wheels, Neuspeed Short Shifter, B&M FP Gauge, JR MAP Controller, Zip's O2 Simulator
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Bob -
This is based on what I've heard as opposed to what I know, but I understand that the stock temp. gauge is intentionally 'notched' to be insensitive to fine changes in coolant temp. I think the only way to get an accurate indication of the actual temp, is with an aftermarket gauge.
Bill
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2000 GSR, JRSC@6psi, JR MAP, Kami/Carsound, ITR catback, rear sway & LSD, ACT HDSS, 11 lb. FW, Injen 3" CAI, Koni Yellows & Eibach ProKit.
[email protected]
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I bought a 160 thermostat from Jackson Racing about 3 months ago for my SOHC. I forgot what size it is (I'm at work and it is sitting on my desk at home). If it's the same size for the GSR you can have it for free. It's brand new and I never installed it!
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HELP, I'm drowning in rice here in Diego!
'00 Civic EX
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it clearly states in the helms manual that the car thinks its in fast-idle (cold weather) mode until about 165 degrees.. dont confuse your ecu like this :P
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I personally LIKE my JR Thermo. The quality is not OEM Honda, but i think itll be ok.
After driving it a bunch in the summer, i noticed that when i popped the hood, i didnt get that WHOOSH of hot air like i used to with the OE thermo in. Ive also noticed my fans dont come on as much/long.
After all, its 10 bux?
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1996 Acura Integra GSR, JRSC@9psi, Drag raced WEEKLY, Autocrossed MONTHLY, and ALWAYS DAILY DRIVEN! [email protected] in the 1/8th, shootin for 8.3's with the 9psi and M/T's!
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...its good stuff on my 98'... the stock temp gauge is very inaccurate, but I read one notch cooler and it takes longer to warm up... not a bad thing down here where winter only lasts 3 days and summer(100's) seems to last all year... hell, I get a sun burn every other Christmas it seems...
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1998' 4dr GSR, 8psi JRSC, 320cc injectors, JR relay removed, B&M CommandFlo
regulator, Fuel bypass mod, Cartech adj. FMU, Walbro HP fuel pump, valves set to
.005i/.006e, MSD BTM, stock intake w/ITR "cool air" resinator, Clutch
Specialties "chatter clutch", Greddy sp exhaust, Tokico Illumina 5-ways, ITR
springs, Skunkworks 22mm rear swaybar(removed due to mount torn out at
present), ES motor mounts and front swaybar bushings, 205/50WR/15 Kumho
Supra 712s, KVR Carbon Fibre pads, Super blue dot 4 brake fluid, B&M fuel
pressure gauge, Autometer sport comp A/F gauge in dimmer location
...
YLW 00' Type R #00-1011 with "special tuning" and 143db triple air horns
Honest officer, I had no idea how fast I was going...the speedometer only gos to 150...
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cooling is already a big issue at 6psi . upgrading the cooling system is mandatory with increased boost .
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99' GSR / JRSC @ 6psi
-JR MAP & BTC
-Walbro 342
-Comptech exhaust & intake/icebox
-Comptech/Koni coilovers
-Mugen 22mm rear sway bar
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I can state for a fact that the computer adds additional fuel around 160F. We always start dyno runs above 165 and preferably above 170 F. If you do not the ECU can richen the A/F ratio by as much as 1 point.
Doug
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http://www.hondata.com
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Hondata:
I can state for a fact that the computer adds additional fuel around 160F. We always start dyno runs above 165 and preferably above 170 F. If you do not the ECU can richen the A/F ratio by as much as 1 point.
Doug
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
So are you saying don't get the 160 degree thermostat when tuning with hondata?2000GSR2
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JRSC @ 6psi
Custom Cold Air Box
Field SFC-VTEC controller
Nuespeed shortshifter
Thermal R&D Stealth
Kamikaze headers
Skunk 2 Cam Gears
Ground Control Coilovers w/ KYB AGX shocks
Random Tech. High-flow cat.
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...now I know that no one believes that because your running a 160 degree stat that your water/engine temps stay that low...
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1998' 4dr GSR, 8psi JRSC, 320cc injectors, JR relay removed, B&M CommandFlo
regulator, Fuel bypass mod, Cartech adj. FMU, Walbro HP fuel pump, valves set to
.005i/.006e, MSD BTM, stock intake w/ITR "cool air" resinator, Clutch
Specialties "chatter clutch", Greddy sp exhaust, Tokico Illumina 5-ways, ITR
springs, Skunkworks 22mm rear swaybar(removed due to mount torn out at
present), ES motor mounts and front swaybar bushings, 205/50WR/15 Kumho
Supra 712s, KVR Carbon Fibre pads, Super blue dot 4 brake fluid, B&M fuel
pressure gauge, Autometer sport comp A/F gauge in dimmer location
...
YLW 00' Type R #00-1011 with "special tuning" and 143db triple air horns
Honest officer, I had no idea how fast I was going...the speedometer only gos to 150...
