3-D---S8?

[devilkelly]

so, new to this message board, i have been looking for a s8 3-D lens adapter thingie.
i know a little about it, and was wondering if anyone has toyed with this? used the lens and what kind of results they've gotton.
the little i do know..is
there are a few different ways to get a 3-D movie with s8.

1. get a lens, which splits the lens into 2 lens, left-right, and on the film will be 2 frames side by side, the same shot just off-set from each other.
2. then to view, use the same adapter on a projector, which takes the two images from either side of the film strip and projects them overlaying eachother, and viewed with polarized glasses. (* you need a really good quality screen, reflective with vertical ridges)
3. the same thing can be done if you want using the red/blue viewing glasses, but only difference being, while filming use a red/blue filter.

the other method, which has a bunch of annoying problems to deal with is to mount 2 cameras together and film. then project the 2 films together and view them with the appropriate glasses, problems being synching up the 2, not impossible though. but this does allow you to get titillating hyper-shots if set extra far apart.....

so, i was wondering if anyone has had experience with this???

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[devilkelly]

whelp, you.re right 'bout "not much of a market", but i like it, it's fetish heaped upon fetish. i just got a split lens, and the lens for the projection has an enlarging capability that makes the projection big, big,big. and since i induldge in a number of artistic fetishes, (and i wouldn't have it any other way) that consistently drain my financial stability, this seems relatively inexpensive to play with. small pleasures.
thanks though. kelly

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[MovieStuff]

Here is a repost of a reply I gave on the same topic couple of weeks ago:

There is another way of doing 3D on any film or video format using only ONE camera. It's called the "Pendulum Effect" and requires that the camera always be moving in the same direction (either dollying left or dollying right).

Here is why it is called the "Pendulum Effect": If you take a pair of really dark sunglasses and pop the dark lens out of one side and view a pendulum swinging back and forth, after a second or two, the pendulum will appear to be swinging in a slightly oval fashion. This is because the dark lens on one eye, believe it or not, actually slows the transmission of the image along the optic nerve by as much as a 10th of a second, which is a lot. Therefore, as the pendulum swings, one eye is seeing in "real time" and the other eye is seeing in "delayed time". This difference will be heightened when the pendulum swings one direction and lessoned when it swings the other direction, resulting in the appearance of it being closer then further away as it alternates directions.

Now, how do you get 3D out of this?

Well, if you have a camera constantly moving, say, to the right, that would make the scenery constantly move to the left hand side of the screen. More importantly, the perspective will be constantly changing, as well, with the camera seeing around objects in its field of view. If you view this footage with a dark filter covering your left eye, then the image will appear in perfect 3D.

Why?

Because the left eye is seeing in "delayed time", meaning the signal it sends to the brain is of the perspective from a few frames back (before objects were "uncovered" due to movement). The right eye, however, is seeing in "real time" from a totally different perspective AFTER objects had been uncovered. The difference in these two perspectives combine in the brain to make up a perfect 3D image.

A really fun experiment to do is to take some objects like chess pieces or small dolls or a toy car and put it on a "lazy susan" or an old record player on the slowest speed or even turning by hand. Shoot some video of this from the side view. Now view it with the single filter over one eye. If the foreground objects were moving screen left, then cover your left eye. If they were moving screen right, then cover you right eye. After a few seconds of constant viewing the image will suddenly become perfect 3D.

The catch is that when the movement stops, the 3D stops, as well!

In fact, the effect is so lifelike and stunning that I am surprised a line of adult porno tapes with a babe on a rotating bed hasn't ever been made. It would sell like hot cakes.

Anyway, I digress.

As a side note, air and sea rescue workers in helicopters often cover one eye with a dark filter to heighten their sense of depth so that objects floating on the surface far below will stand out more. If the scenery is passing to their left, then they cover their left eye, etc.

Anyway, not the same as using two cameras but it will work with any moving medium. Try it! It's fun!

Roger

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Roger Evans
MovieStuff
http://www.afterimagephoto.tv/moviestuff.html

[Matt Pacini]

I had put some thought into this at one time, but you're right about option 2, it's tough to get both camras exactly in sync.
Option one means that the frame is going to be REALLY small...
Super 8 is too small already, plus the biggest reason not to do this, is that it has been proven over & over for the last 50 years, that there's not really a big market for 3D films...

Matt Pacini

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[Cranium]

The Pulfrich effect (the left-right movement, visual latency technique Roger describes) is what's usually done with the 3d TV shows. At least that's what was done a bunch of years ago, before I hung up my broadcast TV access. I know a couple of shows have been 3D recently. Anybody catch them? Anaglyph (red-blue/green) or Pulfrich?
Anybody have a tape of them?
I've been a big 3D buff for a long time. I always wanted to try it Lenny Lipton's way, w/ two cameras on one crystal sync source. Too much $$!
So... Here's an alternative (though not cheap)
A while ago I got the NuVision 3D adapter for camcorders. Interesting idea. It's got a mirrored surface that simulates a second lens, and an LCD "shutter" that switches between straight through and the mirrored surface, synchronized to the vertical blanking of the video signal, so one field is the straight through view, the next field is the offset, left-eye view. You then watch it on video with similarly equipped glasses, that switch 60 times a second between eyes, and it's in 3D. It works really well, except that the flicker gives up quite a headache after a while. So I've been looking for a better solution, and this particular adapter is fairly cheap and clumsy.
How does this relate to s8? Use the same concept, except instead of alternate fields, alternate frames. Run it off of a synch switch, alternating between left and right sides with each closure. And run at 48fps. This probably wouldn't work too well for projection (without modifying a projector) but with a WP3, you could make great anaglyph 3D for video or film output. Hell, you could actually make a separate left and right print for doing polarized 3D film, which is the absolute best way (see Dial M for Murder in 3D, the only 3D film I've seen that didn't resort to cheap thrills and gimmicks)
I've been toying with the idea of making my own version of the 3D adapter, with a beamsplitter and two LCDs, but time's not on my side on this!


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Mikel Z

[avortex]

Hi!

If you want to build your own system for shooting 3-D in Super8, look at this: http://www.steve-spicer.com/Filmstuff/3DFilm.html

Good Luck!



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[Cranium]

OK... It just dawned on me that the flip-flop view thing probably won't work with film. Too much time shift between frames, unless you shoot at a REALLY high framerate, which would make it more economical to use a beamsplitter on a 16mm camera. It'd be cool if someone made a cheap over/under system for film, with left and right views stacked, to be split in post. That way you'd have two widescreen views, rather than two tall views with the side by side beamsplitters.


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Mikel Z

[devilkelly]

cool, thanks. i just bought a lens, and i'm gonna try some stuff.

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