Gauges

[Holden]

I am starting down the path of installing gauges. I just ordered the Autometer Tripple Gauge Pod for the A-Column. Even though Summit lists it as "not orderable" they will take an order over the phone. I think they special order it AutoMeter.

A few questions:

1) Boost Gauge: I've seen this done two ways, putting a Tee into an existing Vacuum line, or inserting a Tee between the JR pressure switch and the manifold. Are there pros/cons to either of these methods? Or should I do what's easier?

2) A/F Gauge: This sounds stupid, but where is the ECU? I've read everyone's posts on what wire off the ECU to tap, but I don't know where it is!

3) FP Gauge: I plan on mounting the sending unit on top of the filter. If I order a gauge with a sending unit, will it connect as is? Or will I need adaptors?

Thanks in advance,

Greg Holden
96 GSR, JRSC, Walbro pump, AEM cai, Greddy PE, RSR headers

[Turismo]

Heres my thought's:

1. I would "t" the two lines for the FPR's together and use the unused vac barb on the manifold to run a direct line to the guage (if it's a vac sized line with the guage).
Therefore it will get it's own line and better response without reducing the time it takes to activate the pressure switch.

2. The ECU is behind the kick panel on the passenger side (under the dash in front of the door).

3. I have no Idea, but please let me know the answer (as well as specific part #'s if you or anyone else knows them).

[JRCivic]

OK, Turismo hit the ECU info right on. If you need help with the wiring, E-mail me and I will walk you through it.

Gauge installation.

BOOST GAUGE...
I do NOT recommend combining the two fuel regulators with a "T" to one of the fittings on the back of the manifold. This splits up the volume of vaccuum available, and like the pressure switch, you may get irregular operation from both FMU's. Rather, you can use one of two methods. (A) If you have an older casting, there will be a pipe plug directly below the A/T sensor, which can be removed. Go to your nearest plumbing/hardware store and show them the plug. They can set you up with an adapter to use the fittings that came with the kit. (B) On the newer manifold, use the screw hole with the silver 6pt head in it... it is the location for water injection. Again, get some brass fittings that will adapt to the supplied Autometer fitting.

AIR/FUEL GAUGE...
See notes above.

FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE...
No, the gauge does not come with the proper fittings to adapt it to the top of the OE fuel filter. However, since you are going to be at a plumbing/hardware store anyway, pick up the proper fittings to adapt this out as well. If you already have a B&M fuel gauge here, just get something to "T" in here and you are done.

Helpful hint: Take ALL of the various fittings that you have with you to the plumbing/hardware store. This will help the person assisting you in getting you the right stuff.


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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph

[Holden]

Thanks Guys.

JRCivic: I've already cut-and-pasted your instructions on the ECU wiring for A/F gauge from a previous thread.

I have a new manifold, so I'll use the water injection tap for Boost.

After paging through the Summit catalog, I think I'm going to get the Intellitronix gauges that are all digital. My reasons for this are that I think they look cool and will be easy to read at night.

Are these gauges known for any problems?

Are most analog gauges backlit? I would consider analog gauges if they are backlit and I hear bad things about the Intellitronix gauges.

Thanks again.

Greg

[lundgren]

JRCivic: I've looked at that plug under the A/T sensor, and there is nothing that I can find to fit it.

If anybody knows what size it is, I'd much rather use it, but again, I cannot find a size that fits. I tried two hardware stores when I did it with no success.


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Lundgren
Lundgren's Integra Site
My AllAdvantage Page

The Groupbuy Center

[Marc]

Holden,

Yes analog guages are backlit so you can see them at night. However, I've heard the autometer AF guage is not backlit. I have an electronic FP guage and boost guage from autometer that I need to install once I get the pod.




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Marc
1997 Civic EX, Supercharged

[Holden]

I just took a look at my brother's FP sending unit (it's the same on that comes with the Intellitronix gauge I'm considering) and it is bigger than I expected.

I don't see how it would fit on top of the fuel filter. I think I will be spliceing into the hose between the filter and the fuel rail to mount this.

Can a botched FP installation lower fuel availability to the engine?

Lundgren, JRCivic: Wouldn't splicing a boost meter off the OEM FPR vacuum line be good? I mean, who cares if the OEM FPR doesn't get as "good" a vacuum signal, it's the JR FPR doing the important work. Right? I will try to fit the water injection hole though. That would be best.

Thanks,

Greg

[This message has been edited by Holden (edited February 12, 2000).]

[turbogsr97]

i would not buy a intellitronix gauge.several of my friends and i have some.after about 8 months they start to have problems.my a/f gauge sticks,and i have to hit it with something to make it start to work again.i dont know who makes it but i would buy a gauge from options.i can get back to u with the name of the company that makes the gauge.my friend has one in his civic and it works very well.

later
mike

[redline]

Now that we have the boost gauge covered what about the vac line for the BTM???

K

[JRCivic]

OK, to clarify the fuel pressure sending unit install, here is what I am doing.

Start by replacing the OE 17mm headed banjo bolt thru the fuel line at the filter with the new banjo bolt that comes with a B&M fuel pressure gauge. Then install the 90' bend that also comes with the fuel pressure gauge. Now, install a single male/dual female "T" in the open end of the 90' B&M fitting, and angle the base of the "T" towards the battery. The actual B&M gauge will end up on the very end of the "T" fitting directly in line with the 90' fitting. The Fuel pressure sending unit will be mounted next to the battery at the base of the "T".

As for the vaccuum line for the BTM, I think that the "T" off of the OE FPR is OK for now, however, this component will become very important once the Cartech FMU is utilized, and thus, at that time, a more isolated location must be devised.



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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph