What is NECESSARY to run Nitrous safely?

[smeister]

From all the parts listed below...which parts are a necessity to run and monitor nitrous safely?
NOS progressive controller
350 at summit racing

MSD Dig6
280 at summit racing

NOS Purge Kit
90 at summit racing

MSD Window Activation Switch
80 at summit racing

NOS Heater with Thermostat
115 at summit racing

Blaster HVC Coil
110 at summit racing

MSD-8293 Distributor Cap
50 at summit racing

Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
110

NGK Spark Plugs one step colder
2.50 each

NGK Spark Plug Wires
60

A/F Gauge

Nitrous Gauge

Oil Pressure Gauge

VAFC

FPR

2 solenoids

If I am missing anything that is important please post it. I know I dont need all of the above such as the purge kit and bottle heater. I just need people with experience to give me some advice. Thanks in advance.

[Marc]

For what size shot?

Generally, the bigger the shot the more mods you will need. If you're running a small shot you don't need an upgraded ignition or a purge kit. Gauges, colder plugs, and fuel pump are a good idea regardless of shot. The other mods will depend on how large the shot is.

[smeister]

Thanks for the reply. I am going to run a direct port 75 shot for now. I just want to play it safe, and I'd like to stay away from having a bad experience with nitrous heheh. The kit is the NOS Import 75-200shot kit. Here's a link to it. http://www.nosnitrous.com/HiOctn/Pro...rtkits75s.html

[smeister]

What about the Walbro 255lph? How much do they run for?
I looked into the Jacob's Nitrous Mastermind and I like it. It is a progressive controller plus more. It can retard timing, pretty much has a window activation switch, and increases fuel. I'd safe a lot of money buying this gadget instead of all the MSD stuff seperate. [img]redface.gif[/img] )

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ May 31, 2002 04:27 PM: Message edited by: smeister ]</font>

[CivicR]

Hey guys from what I researched progressive nitrous controllers they are a good thing except for that they are hard on the nitrous solenoids...when the controllers gradually brings up the nitrous it pulses the soleniod many times a second...eventually the seals in the soleniod will start leaking from being opened and closed so many times...thats not good!...if this was a race car that you are just using at the track and you are willing to check and or rebuild the solenoids on a regular basis then I would say you would be ok...you might want to look into this more before you decide to purchase a controller...good luck

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ May 31, 2002 10:52 AM: Message edited by: CivicR ]</font>

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ May 31, 2002 10:53 AM: Message edited by: CivicR ]</font>

[klintman]

better a n2o solenoid then an engine ... eigh .

[JRCivic]

To MINIMIZE your risk with nitrous, you need to address the following items:

1) Fuel: a high volume fuel pump is a must... the GSS-342 is a good choice. Cleaning your injectors is also a good idea.

2) Spark: get a MSD 6A box, blaster street coil and cap. I also suggest NGK spark plug wires and colder plugs.

3) Timing: spiking cylinder pressures is the second most common motor killer when using nitrous. Choose a retard device that will reduce your advance when the nitrous is in use... a good choice is the Jacobs Electronics Nitrous Mastermind.

The rest of the items that you have listed are not necessary... but most are in fact good options to consider.

[CivicR]

klintman...have you ever seen what happens to an engine when NOS is leaking into it and then you start it...BOOM...toasted motor!...so a leaking solenoid is not good at all!...thats why I was saying that...If I was racing the car only I wouldnt mind rebuiding the solenoids often...but what happens when someone doesnt catch the leaking one early enough?

[smeister]

Very interesting about the progressive controller. I will look into it and post more info if I can. Thanks

[smeister]

By the way, if the solenoid brakes and stays open then how will the nitrous be turned off? I read that people use two solenoids incase one or the other goes kaput and stays open so that the second solenoid can stlil turn the nitrous off.