coolant bypass the throttle body??

[randomwalk101]

Yes, that's what I'm talking about...erratic idle when performing the coolant bypass mod. I've done it in '95 but reverted back to stock form shortly afterwards...I don't know why others keep telling me idle will not be effected.

[Holden]

I went looking for part to make a shutoff valve in the coolant line the runs to the throttle body. The only valves small enough were meant for compression fittings onto hard piping. Perhaps this is what Rafe is trying to do with the OE hard lines he was looking for...

Anyway, I just cut the hose in two and plugged up the ends. I'll have to put a new hose in by September for colder weather.

The idle is, as expected, higher for longer when cold and then a bit erratic and lower after driving a while. This was in 50 degree weather.

Greg

[rjaffey]

This is a simple mod. From Home Depot (or equivalent) pick up the following:

- A 1/4" ball valve with 1/4" NPT threaded openings on each side. I found a nice small brass one with an SS ball and Teflon liner for just over $6.

- Two 1/4" NPT nipple to 3/8" or 5/16" barbed fitting. Short is better. I got ones with barbed ends that were about 3/4".

Now coat the threaded ends with TFE compound and thread them into the valve. Then just splice the valve into the coolant line between the intake manifold and the fitting right under the throttle body.

Now it's a snap to switch between hot and cold weather modes.

[pest]

Havent been here in a while.

What I have done:

Took off screws from back of IACV (as shown above)

Ran the coolant line from the Water pipe to where the line originally came out of the FITV and into the intake manifold.

Had bad idle problems. FITV was the culprit. Didnt tighten it up, just took it out and put a block off plate in.

Ran the coolant line from thermostat to right below the distributor.

I have had zero problems and it is easily reversible. Took me all of 30 mins (minus making the block off plate) Saves some weight,too

Wish I had pics... need a digi cam.

BTW... fluctuating idle and a lightened flywheel is the most horrible thing I have ever experienced.

Pete

[5 Liter Eater]

Random,

When you say you eliminated the "fast idle valve", do you mean you took out the thermo-valve underneath the front of the TB or the IAC on the firewall side of the intake?

[pest]

Random got rid of the one below the T-body.

If you were to get rid of the IACV valve on the back of the intake in front of the firewall, you will throw a code 14 for IACV and it will idle high, shitty, and fast. Leave the IACV in and plugged up.

Pete

[randomwalk101]

If you take out the throttle body (for ease of adjustment), take out the little plate that covers the fast idle valve..turn it all the way in to disable the valve. I live in Texas where it's hot hot hot all year long so it's not a problem here. In colder climate,I'm not sure.

Just by pass the coolant through the fast idle valve..do not by-pass the AVAIC (or whatever)...you'll this since the ECU is monitoring temperature here...

[randomwalk101]

Did a coolant bypass the throttle body again...and completely eliminated the fast idle valve...solved my idle fluctuating for good...and cool the intake at the same time !

[rjaffey]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Just by pass the coolant through the fast idle valve..do not by-pass the AVAIC (or whatever)...you'll this since the ECU is monitoring temperature here...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I don't believe this is correct, at least not on the Hondas I've worked on. There's a separate sensor to measure coolant temp. The coolant flowing through the IACV is just to keep it from icing when the conditions are right for it. If you're trying to minimize heating of the throttle body, you don't want coolant flowing through the IACV either.

[randomwalk101]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by rjaffey:
I don't believe this is correct, at least not on the Hondas I've worked on. There's a separate sensor to measure coolant temp. The coolant flowing through the IACV is just to keep it from icing when the conditions are right for it. If you're trying to minimize heating of the throttle body, you don't want coolant flowing through the IACV either.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I dont' know ... may be after some of you guys do the coolant by-pass (the IACV) and come back and tell us about it...But from what I have witnessed in the past, by passing the IACV will definately cause idle problem...