I have been riding on the roughest suspension made. Skunk2 cheater coilovers with tokico blue shocks.
I'm going to do a complete suspension overhaul. What setup should I go with? I would like it to ride like stock and still be able to perform very well on an autox course. Any suggestions?
I am setup with KYB AGX and ground controls with 400lb front and 300lb rear. I also have a comptech 22 rear sway with stiffener. the car ride perfect. If I set the shocks on 1 all the way around it is like a cadillac and if I set them to full stiffness it rides like a go kart. I am very happy with the setup, but if I were to change anything I would get koni yellows. the AGX only have adjustable rebound and I would like to have adjustable damping as well.
Urethane everywhere(Even motor mount inserts&shifter) 200$
Koni Sport Yellows 440$
Coilover conversion kit 120$
Eibach 400fr/600rr 200$
Type R rear sway 100$
Misc. shock tower braces 150$
1000$-1200$ total investment. Give or take "deals" you find, seems like EEEVERYBODY is a dealer these days and get stuff for 1/2 price.
Anyway, not bad for a buncha mods that will deffinetly be a bang for your buck. And the cool thing is, you dont need a dyno to s00pUr t00n it, and finding the "sweet spot" is a fun process with no potential damage.
Have fun and dont forget the R-compound tires.....
If you decide to go with a softer spring, be sure to stay at LEAST 100lbs difference between front and rear. The rears being the stiffer of the two. In autox a tail happy FWD car, is a FAST car, you just hafta learn to drive it and keep your foot ON THE GAS! [img]graemlins/grrr.gif[/img]
Eibach Pro Kit
Koni yellows set soft for normal, hard for autox.
Comptech rear bar & stiffener set to hard. I'll probably move this to medium; it's a little tail happy at the autox and I prefer a little push.
Excellent handling and a comfortable ride.
I'd vote against urethane motor mounts. They're ok when you're moving but the vibration at idle is a PITA and I'm thinking about removing them.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Try adjusting your idle up/down 100rpms......mine felt stock.Originally posted by TaiPan:
I'd vote against urethane motor mounts. They're ok when you're moving but the vibration at idle is a PITA and I'm thinking about removing them.
ITR springs, shocks and rear sway is about THE ebst you can get for daily driving, track and price. bar nne. tuned for the Teg's from the git go.
Skunk2 cheater coilovers??
Man those must be new...I need to get some of those [img]smile.gif[/img] [img]smile.gif[/img] [img]smile.gif[/img]
What model are they actually? Dont tell me you have the 900lb drag springs in the back?
I say "cheater" because they are ride height fully adjustable but are not one complete unit like a set of Tein's or something.
The funny thing is my skunk2 springs actually say skunkworks on them. I bought them before they had to change there name.
I'd like to do some research on spring rates on various cars in stock form and different aftermarket spring rate setups. Where could I get this information?
Also, Tony you state that I should have the stiffer in the rear yet grand says stiffer in the front. Whats the difference and why?
Stiffer in the rear makes the car rotate really well. It keeps the rear tires more straight up and down, not allowing them to gain as much negative camber as the front. Remember, a LOOSE(oversteering) FWD Honda is a FAST Honda.
Also, the high rear rate has a side benefit, if you go drag racing it SHOULD help. I picked up about .2 in the 1/8th mile with my above subscribed suspension. Dialed in differently from autox setup, of course.....
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