New Heathkit AS101 owner - First post.

[marukhseo]

I happen to have these "made for Ovation" Altec VHF drivers and horns in the mail.It is so intersting to play with it.. its gud.

[alancohen]

So I'm contemplating a new cabinet for my Heathkit components and looking around for design possibilities. I have no need to reinvent the wheel and was considering something like this:



It's not unlike what I have now, but the ports are more "tune-able" I think. But I would not mind separating the 811s from the 416s ala the Model 19s. With the 802s I might need more horn depth.

Available components: 416A LF drivers & 811 w/802Gs. Eventually bi-amped with Behringer 2496 active XO. My eventual XO frequency will likely not be far off from the 800Hz where they are now, although I will certainly experiment with delays and slopes.

Or would something more MLTL-like be better? I would like to get the 811s up to seated ear level, but would like to avoid clear-cutting an entire forest to build them. I'd prefer not to have 300# speakers in my LR if I can avoid it.

So would a stonehenge-like tower be better, or something like those 1233 cabs on platforms/legs? Or maybe the 416s low and the 811s on "legs". If I build separate cabs for the 416s and 811s, how far apart vertically can I go before things get weird?

They do not need to be overly sophisticated in appearance, but I would prefer they do not look like and erector set either.

Just thinking out loud.

[martyh45]

A few years back I posted a cabinet drawing for a simple model 19 clone. The hosting service sucked and my HD crashed so I don’t have it anymore. If someone has a copy it might work for you. Leave out the slot and tune with standard ports. It will also take a set of M19 foams which are a good idea to use. For the 416-8A the Onken cab is nice but those are huge and heavy. On the plus side since you top mount horns with this box you can swap them out pretty easily and certainly won’t need a sub for music.

[GM]

I have all the different drawings you sent me or was posted AFAIK, but don't recall if they were all 'finals' though. I still want to [eventually] set up the DIY designs drawing database we had planned.

GM

[cradeldorf]

We could use a good cabinet building thread. been kinda slow around here... As a general rule the perfect cabinet idea will come to you 3/4 of the way through building the first choice you made.

[mah]

Easy ports.

Standard PVC pipe/tube and close-fit flange from plumbing supplier. I used 8-hole mounting and a gasket. Flanges do not need to be recessed into baffle - I did it purely for appearance.

Cut tube to required test length and slip the drilled flange on. I seal the flange to the tube, behind the flange, with masking tape at this stage - one wrap does the job.

If you accurately drill the mounting holes in the flanges(I didn't and cussed myself later) you can reverse mount the flanges and have the tubes on the outside of the panel for easy access when trying-out different length tubes during the tuning process. You will also be able to mount any port to any baffle hole.

When happy with the cabinet tuning the flange to tube joint can be permanently glued with a PVC adhesive that will give you enough time to align the parts before it sets.

[GM]

If there?s room, I recommend using the M19?s 30? o.d. width x 21? o.d. depth.

Yes, as already noted, tube ports are the way to go if they need to be longer than baffle thickness.

I wouldn?t have recommended the MLTL if I didn?t think it a good option. Don?t know your average seated ear height, but ~38? is common, so adding half the horn recess height + ?? top plate = 43.5? high, ergo using 19 mm BB, Apple or marine grade no-void ply it for sure won?t be light, but nowhere near 300#.

The Stonehenge tower is what we now usually refer to as a MLTL, but from an acoustical POV, not a particularly good one since it retains a BR?s ~ideal vent location, i.e. as close as practical to the driver.

This not only defeats the cab?s TL modes vent damping ability, but also adds a notch in the mid-bass right where you don?t want one and last, but not least, causes some amount of peaking at Fb that when placed near a boundary can color the bass too much, though of course it can be damped down with additional stuffing if need be.

Spacing speakers up off the floor can roll off the bass too much and vertically ?gapping? the woofer/horn can cause audible phasing problems if the listening distance isn?t far away enough for them to sound as one, so best to have them as close together as practical, especially since you?re doing the XOs digitally and don?t have to worry about the delays that passives have.

GM

[alancohen]

I built this speaker before discovering the wonderful world of Altec horns. It utilizes an 8" Tang Band full-range driver. I assume you mean this style where the port is separated from the driver. I used a $5 4" port tube from Parts Express an cut it to length to tune.



I also saw this on 6 moons 6moons audio reviews: Steph?n's Altec 604 Dream Speaker where he does a similar thing with a 604. I guess I would be mounting my 811 on top. His dimensions are deeper than wide. I think I would go the other direction as you suggest, ~30" wide by ~21" deep which would accommodate the horn better. I'd like to avoid the freakish, appearance-wise.

The speakers I built are 3/4 MDF and weigh quite a bit. I can only imagine what the cab would weigh of the size I would need for the 416s. I think for that reason I would build a separate cab for the 811. Not that I'm planning on moving again soon. But the experience is still very fresh in my memory (arms and back). My current sentiment is to be buried in this house, but who knows?

Since I'm bi-amping w/ active XO, should I be considering an open baffle design?

[alancohen]

Not easy to find, but I came across these Thiele small parameters for the 416A:

Model Number: 416A
Xmax (inch): 0.6
Xmax (mm): 15
Re (ohms): 12.54
Fs (Hz) 21.4
Vas (cu. ft.) 36.8
Qts 0.272
Le 2.5
BI 18.01
Cone Dia 12.7
Cms 0.001124

Plugging in to this calculator Speaker Box Enclosure Designer / Calculator I get 10.02ft3 for volume. 6" x 2.57" length port for the 416A.

That would give me a box OD 28" wide, 21" deep and 36" high made from 3/4 MDF with 3/4" battens and leave room on top to get the 811 to ear level.

[valhallax]

[QUOTE=alancohen;1845970] His dimensions are deeper than wide.
whose dimensions?