I like the BLUE links.
Hostboard or GM?
It's really simple, just fill in the blanks, so to speak, i.e. just highlight what you want to change and type it in.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
I like the BLUE links.
Hostboard or GM?
Opinion is only as valid as its verifiable supporting evidence.
GM........apparently Hostboard is done with us.......again.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
Very cool, I like them in the MLTLs from last year's RMAF. I had heard 604 varieties before, including the model 18s, the MLTL implementations sound best to me. I am trying to get my hands on a set of 604-8Ks right now... hope I get lucky.Originally Posted by juniper
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Phil:
I apreciate that... I am pretty much settle to reducing the port size to 75"-82"..and go on from there.
I have a few questions for you guys that have done this, yourself, pano, marshall etc...a lot of ideas on mass loading the side panels and the need to use void free plywood and avoid MDF, but I have not heard of people gluing say 2"x12" boards on the sides and tying them together with the same (or 2x4s) ....that world reduce int volume but work address the mass/rigity aspects without spending a fortune? I cant think of any obvious disadvantages ....
Finally, there were a few of you that did 4" or 6"D pipes to tune your cabinets, what are the subjective advantages of that versus the slots?
Hmm, why not 'step up' to the 3 series with its larger HF horn with its acoustically better match-up to the woofer? Long term, saving a relatively few $$ for really old tech seems 'penny wise and pound foolish' to me. Frankly, even the 3 series' horn is too small since the XO point ideally needs to be down around 1 kHz, but it's still an improvement plus it's a real radial horn with its superior polar response in comparison.
Again, the rear chamber is a crudely expanding BLH terminated with a vent [ML-horn or ML-TQWT depending on who you ask], so to minimize adding turbulence to further disrupt its 1/4 WL pipe action that increases vent damping, any bracing should be 'aimed' accordingly; so historically I've recommended either increasing the cab's panel thickness by adding at least a ~3/4" BB, apple or marine grade plywood exterior 'skin' over the whole cab [excluding the horn interior walls of course] or using enough ~1-1/4" closet rod wood 'dowels' to randomly break up large panel surfaces into < ~ 1 ft square areas and add 1x4 boards on edge to brace the underside of the horn. Dowels or vertically oriented boards can be used to tie the baffle to the rear cover, though recommend converting it to a small access cover just large enough to remove the driver and use 1" Nema 5-12 [dust, moisture tight] neoprene gasket to ensure a good seal.
Anyway, lots of materials, etc., options as to how to brace/mass load cabs in general with a 'slant' towards all high aspect ratio ones [TL, etc.], so hopefully have provided enough to guide you and let you determine at what point enough is 'enough'.
WRT to using large vent pipes, this is only required for high power apps at a higher tuning point than what typically works best overall in a HIFI app, so a waste of net Vb, $$$ IME; ditto for most MLTLs too, though there's quite a few folks that [erroneously AFAIK] believe that a simple baffle thickness reflex vent is inherently too 'loose' [damped] to perform well because so many vintage cab alignments have 'boomy'/'ringing' vents, but this was due to being 'forced' to tune to Fs to provide good amp compatibility when ideally they usually needed to be tuned lower or at least externally damped either using a high enough aspect ratio cab alignment and/or covering it with some type of damping material to lower its Q.
In the A7's case, it has a long enough acoustical path-length to sufficiently damp a reflex vent even at low power, but one can always damp it a bit more by tightly stretching one or more layers of cloth, insulation, etc., over it to 'taste'. Altec originally used a high mesh count metal hardware cloth screen to 'kill two birds with one stone', adding a bit of damping and bug/rodent control that apparently was the first cost cutting 'victim'.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
No response to this: http://www.hostboard.com/forums/f700/278899-ot-server-upgrade-please-post-here-if-you-have-any-issues-post1962126.html#post1962126
Nor to Mah's + my ditto WRT changing links to another color or 'something' that highlights them a bit and why I started doing it.
Seems like there's something else, but it evades me ATM.
GM
Last edited by GM; March 13th, 2016 at 04:05 PM.
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
OK you guys have to let me know ASAP.. As I might miss something here and there...I will look into it.
WRT - Changing the links to a different color maybe an issue as it is a lot more involved... I have already discussed this with Steven and from his explanation.It will be a PIA to correct..
Interesting! In my simple mind, it seems like it could be done globally to the entire site with a single line of code inserted somewhere.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
i don't see what you guys are talking about.
Sonic Barbarian
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