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Thread: CODE 14...IAC PLEASE HELP!!!!

  1. #1
    Inactive Member defconsc's Avatar
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    Red face

    ok i changed to another IAC (used), checked the vac lines and checked the wiring harnesses on the IAC and sealed the gasket on the IAC.

    I an STILL getting an idling problem on the car.
    It's anoying the F$*&@ out of me cause i have no idea what is causeing the idling problem.

    I also reset the ECU and code 14 popped up again.

    IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE THAT ANYONE CAN SUGGEST???!!
    PLEASE I NEED HELP BAD!!!!!
    LIKE I SAID IDLING GOES UP AND DOWN FROM 1000-2000rpms.

    PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!

    DEFCONSC

    THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!!!!

  2. #2
    Inactive Member Blown98GSR's Avatar
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    Maybe your used IAC is bad.

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    Inactive Member MrBrutus's Avatar
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    Did you check for any vacuum leaks already?? because a vacuum leak would cause your idle to go up and down like you describe also.

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    Inactive Member Holden's Avatar
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    Post

    I'd say it's time to go vacuum leak hunting with a propane torch.

    Park the car outside and idle it until it does the up and down thing. Then open the propane, but don't light it. Wave it around various parts and connections looking for a leak. The engine will rev when you find a leak.

    IMPORTANT: Don't search for too long at one time. You don't want to build up enough propane to ruin your day. I'd probably go 20 seconds open. 1 minute closed.

    Good luck.

  5. #5
    Inactive Member defconsc's Avatar
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    i definitely have to recheck the vac. lines.
    i only checked the ones on the top of the blower and the manifold, basically the ones where i can reach without going too deep in the engine. i have to check out all the other ones, like the ones at the bottem

    defconsc

    P.S any other suggestions on checking for vac. leaks??

  6. #6
    Inactive Member defconsc's Avatar
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    anyone have any other suggestions on how to check for vac. leaks????

    defconsc

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    Inactive Member Moad'Ib's Avatar
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    well my year long battle with that code came to an end one day when I realized that the IAT and the IACV sensors were hooked up backwards. slap

  8. #8
    Inactive Member cooldred's Avatar
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    I had the same reving problem with a code 14.I went through 2 large cans of carb cleaner looking for a vacuum leak. Finally, I discovered the IAB and IAC electrical connectors were switched. Since the IAB valve was not used and zip tied out of sight, I didn't realize I had the connectors switched.

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    Inactive Member morepoop4u's Avatar
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    i'm in the same boat as you. after using the helms i finally narrowed the problem to a vaccum leak. i'm still looking for that damn leak after 2 weeks argh! when using the carb cleaner should you have someone rev the engine and hold it at a certain rpm so that there would be more vacuum pressure?

  10. #10
    Senior Hostboard Member JRCivic's Avatar
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    I suggest checking the connectors... verify the wire colors to your Helm's manual.
    As for the Propane thing... uh, this sounds a bit volatile to me. Although Greg is just the kind of guy who lives quite DANGEROUSLY, for your own safety, I must advise you to use something far more stable like carb cleaner. Spray it all around the blower area... when the engine revs up... try it again in the same place. If it repeats, then it is the source of your vaccuum leak.

    Good luck.

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