However, there's a catch...One of these has an unevenness in the surround....
A slight raised area/roll that hopefully is visible on the picture. There doesn't appear to be any rubbing of the voice coil, but is this going to be a major issue?
However, there's a catch...One of these has an unevenness in the surround....
A slight raised area/roll that hopefully is visible on the picture. There doesn't appear to be any rubbing of the voice coil, but is this going to be a major issue?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Analog Addict - Jack of all Trades, Master of None
Searching for Sonic Nirvana...
Yeah it's been a longtime since I seen a 825/828 cab in person. WRT cutting the top.Adding a piece of plywood (1/4-3/8") would seem to be the best route for square edges/corners.Then filling all around the edge (Under the new Ply on the sides) with bondo.This way the bondo would be protected on the corners by the new plywood and wouldn't crack from little bumps.Originally Posted by analog addict
Allan have you hooked up this woofer and tested it for a bit with various Bass heavy tunes ? Anything could happen and usually do when you least need them too ! But if there seems to be no sonic issue when testing, go for it,they should be fine.You could always have them reconed if a issue does arise. All the recones I got back from Bill have been an improvement IMHO. They just seem to produce the LF's more effortlessly, it seems. Is it all in my head ? Could be....
But darn, they do sound good now...
I would use a chemical stripper where you are going to apply filler so it raises the grain and makes the best bond possible. I would also use use a fiberglass/epoxy mixture to fill them. Likely, it will be harder and more durable than the wood. Just remember one thing. If you don't bump them, no damage will occur. What exactly do you think happened to them as they are? They got bumped and the ply got damaged! The ply really won't be much stronger that the resin epoxy mix I am talking about. The stuff dries as hard as a rock and is sandable. I would just fill em and not worry about damage that hasn't even occurred yet. I don't think all the filler paranoia is even warranted. I have had wood give out before a lot of my filler has on some projects. Just how rough do you plan to be with these anyway? If real rough, why not put metal corners on them like PA cabs use?
Last edited by hatrack71; February 5th, 2012 at 10:24 AM.
More incremental progress. I'm starting to hate stinking Bondo!...
Working on building up at least the top corners. The black one is a little further along than the grey one....
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Analog Addict - Jack of all Trades, Master of None
Searching for Sonic Nirvana...
Looking good, you'll be ready to repaint a car pretty soon.Just remember to use 40 grit sandpaper in your sander and knock it down before it sets up too much and gets too hard as you build up the corners and edges. You should start sanding while you can still dig your fingernail into it a little.
I've actually been using a straight rasp to take the extra off down to close to the wood. Wherever I wind up when the can is empty is as far as I'm going to go....
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Analog Addict - Jack of all Trades, Master of None
Searching for Sonic Nirvana...
better be a gallon can... then there's all ways the glazing putty
"those sounds to which no definite pitch can be assigned are usually classified as noise"<br />harvey fletcher-1928
It's interesting just how rough a grade of plywood Altec used in those utility cabinets. My slightly different (newer?) style boxes use that sign board plywood which has a super smooth paper top coat.
"James, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing!" World's scariest Volvo: [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKn-LTNa4rc[/url]
Mine were made from the paper coated stuff, too. I think they were made in 75/76.
Audio_by_Goodwill
Michigan, USA
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